Something I've been thinking about is....couldn't some (if not all) of the noise be adjusted out using adjustable pushrods? I would think the noisiness would come from the pushrod leaving contact with the rocker, then finding contact again.

 

I don't know about that SC, I have adjustable pushrods with my carefully tuned TW408-6 cams or (dyslexia TW6-408) whatever.
The valvetrain is noisy, but I just consider it very much part of the character of the state of tune and enjoy the added notes of mechanical music from the very pleasing symphony of sound from the beast.

 

I hear what you're saying and I subscribe to that as well but like in my situation...is part of the noise coming from a pushrod that may not be tall enough for those cams and eventually will fail probably at the worst possible moment.

There is noise from the performance side of it and then there is noise because there is too much end play. Not sure which I'm hearing.

 

The length of the pushrod should be the distance between the lifter when resting on the off-lobe position of the cam to the rocker arm with the valve closed ... most grinds for use on street bikes will have the off lobe radius equal to the stock cams ... which is why you can use the stock push rods .... So, the adjustable push rods, when properly adjusted should end up being the same length ....

Potentially any noise might be from the valve train losing momentary contact with each other when the cam opens ... if this is exacerbated due to high lift, the valves can 'float' ... i.e., not close totally ....

R/
'Chop

 

Was searching around the woods site and found offset rocker arm plates. that illiminates some noise. They also have there own lifters.
This is what they say.

ORS-1


Moves pushrod out .030 away and towards center of the
pushrod tube.
As we all know a problem exists when the pushrod is at it’s
lowest and highest points, especially with high lift cams.
Thanks to a good idea from Gary Williams & Company, these
rocker arm supports move the pushrods away, thus eliminating
the normal rubbing contact points between the pushrod tube
and the pushrod. When using roller rocker arms with 7 millimeter
stem valves, the problem gets worse as the roller rocker tip tries
to roll off the forward edge of the tip of the valve stem.
This additional .030 inward motion helps to eliminate this problem also.

 

I put in Andrews T-26G cams. G= gear drive. I used S&S adjustable pushrods and new lifters. I have .001 backlash with the gears cold. the gear drive can be heard at idle over the old chain drive(little whir-whir sound of course) and the sewing machine noise is non-existent. Someone mentioned to me(performance shop owner) that adj. pushrods can make the sewing machine noise quieter(due to the adjustment as opposed to being an exact length) but I don't know other than that my bike is quieter in that regard and I do have adj. pushrods.

 

i run andrews 37 and love the cam, the lobes are great and have a noticable sound from the pipes, anyone that hears my bike knows right away that it has the motor done... hell even my wife noticed the diff in the sound of the bike... but motor noise... nope add 20oz of lucas oil treatment and all the valve train noise will go away bud,
I also run tapered adjust push

 

i am now at 100 torque and 91 hp, with the woods tw6, at idle just the sound makes you forget the noise and if your that **** buy a yamaha

 

Bob, that's a little harsh don't ya think?

After I did my 6's I had no idea the top end was going to make a lot more noise. First time I ever did cams and thought maybe I did something wrong. No, I didn't do anything wrong. Have learned that because of the sharp lobes on the cam it just makes a little more noise. I can live with that and the new found power.

 

I don't notice any new (additional) noise with the cams, but that could be because of my exhaust or stereo drowning it out. I'm not really paying attention, but haven't heard anything that made me say "wow that's really louder now".