Dyna Front End Clunk: Bearing Kit
#1
Dyna Front End Clunk: Bearing Kit
I have been reading about washers, heavy duty fork oil, etc to deal with the front end clunk. None of them worked for me over the long haul. Apparently, MOCO used a cheap bearing kit. I hope to have part nos. on Tuesday. I will share them. Anyone else tried this fix?
#2
Elite HDF Member
#4
Outstanding HDF Member
There is lots of information about the "front end clunk" and its fix here on the forums. There is also a service bulletin which Harley has published about the fix.
If the clunk is caused by improper neck bearing head pressure, Harley has replacement parts to help correct the problem. But, without correct repair steps, the parts will not do any good.
Proper pressure needs to applied to the neck bearings. This is accomplished by adjustment of the star nut located under the upper fork clamp or triple tree. Once this adjustment is made, a fall-away test will verify it is correct.
Next, the upper triple tree is squeezed between the star adjusting nut and the fork stem nut. This is what keeps it all together and is where the Harley replacement parts come in. They are now using a hardened washer under the fork stem nut because the softer old thin washer was not allowing the stem nut to retain its torque value. Using this new hardened washer, the stem nut is now torqued to 75-80 ft/lbs.
A lot of guys have gone to the dealer to have this repair made and soon started experiencing the clunk again because the dealer simply replaced the fork stem nut and washer, then torqued them without adjusting the star adjusting nut for proper bearing head pressure. Thought a little explanation might prevent this.
If the clunk is caused by improper neck bearing head pressure, Harley has replacement parts to help correct the problem. But, without correct repair steps, the parts will not do any good.
Proper pressure needs to applied to the neck bearings. This is accomplished by adjustment of the star nut located under the upper fork clamp or triple tree. Once this adjustment is made, a fall-away test will verify it is correct.
Next, the upper triple tree is squeezed between the star adjusting nut and the fork stem nut. This is what keeps it all together and is where the Harley replacement parts come in. They are now using a hardened washer under the fork stem nut because the softer old thin washer was not allowing the stem nut to retain its torque value. Using this new hardened washer, the stem nut is now torqued to 75-80 ft/lbs.
A lot of guys have gone to the dealer to have this repair made and soon started experiencing the clunk again because the dealer simply replaced the fork stem nut and washer, then torqued them without adjusting the star adjusting nut for proper bearing head pressure. Thought a little explanation might prevent this.
#6
Curious if the MOCO knew about AND ensured the fix was implemented for 2010 models?
I've got a 2010 Fat Bob the exhibits this symptom. Of course I took it in and they checked the tank bolts and torqued the steering head bolt to spec. Still had the problem though....
I'm taking it in for the 1000 mile service next week and will reitterate that I shouldn't have to put up with this on 3 month old $16K bike.
I've got a 2010 Fat Bob the exhibits this symptom. Of course I took it in and they checked the tank bolts and torqued the steering head bolt to spec. Still had the problem though....
I'm taking it in for the 1000 mile service next week and will reitterate that I shouldn't have to put up with this on 3 month old $16K bike.
#7
There is lots of information about the "front end clunk" and its fix here on the forums. There is also a service bulletin which Harley has published about the fix.
If the clunk is caused by improper neck bearing head pressure, Harley has replacement parts to help correct the problem. But, without correct repair steps, the parts will not do any good.
Proper pressure needs to applied to the neck bearings. This is accomplished by adjustment of the star nut located under the upper fork clamp or triple tree. Once this adjustment is made, a fall-away test will verify it is correct.
Next, the upper triple tree is squeezed between the star adjusting nut and the fork stem nut. This is what keeps it all together and is where the Harley replacement parts come in. They are now using a hardened washer under the fork stem nut because the softer old thin washer was not allowing the stem nut to retain its torque value. Using this new hardened washer, the stem nut is now torqued to 75-80 ft/lbs.
A lot of guys have gone to the dealer to have this repair made and soon started experiencing the clunk again because the dealer simply replaced the fork stem nut and washer, then torqued them without adjusting the star adjusting nut for proper bearing head pressure. Thought a little explanation might prevent this.
If the clunk is caused by improper neck bearing head pressure, Harley has replacement parts to help correct the problem. But, without correct repair steps, the parts will not do any good.
Proper pressure needs to applied to the neck bearings. This is accomplished by adjustment of the star nut located under the upper fork clamp or triple tree. Once this adjustment is made, a fall-away test will verify it is correct.
Next, the upper triple tree is squeezed between the star adjusting nut and the fork stem nut. This is what keeps it all together and is where the Harley replacement parts come in. They are now using a hardened washer under the fork stem nut because the softer old thin washer was not allowing the stem nut to retain its torque value. Using this new hardened washer, the stem nut is now torqued to 75-80 ft/lbs.
A lot of guys have gone to the dealer to have this repair made and soon started experiencing the clunk again because the dealer simply replaced the fork stem nut and washer, then torqued them without adjusting the star adjusting nut for proper bearing head pressure. Thought a little explanation might prevent this.
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#8
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#9
Elite HDF Member
Curious if the MOCO knew about AND ensured the fix was implemented for 2010 models?
I've got a 2010 Fat Bob the exhibits this symptom. Of course I took it in and they checked the tank bolts and torqued the steering head bolt to spec. Still had the problem though....
I'm taking it in for the 1000 mile service next week and will reitterate that I shouldn't have to put up with this on 3 month old $16K bike.
I've got a 2010 Fat Bob the exhibits this symptom. Of course I took it in and they checked the tank bolts and torqued the steering head bolt to spec. Still had the problem though....
I'm taking it in for the 1000 mile service next week and will reitterate that I shouldn't have to put up with this on 3 month old $16K bike.