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Stripped the stud in the header that holds the exhaust on....

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  #31  
Old 05-13-2010, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
The only reason you should be concerned is if you (probably) rush yourself trying to install a new exhaust system and end up cross threading the flange nuts. No offense to the OP.

On the other hand, would you really WANT the studs to come out easy? I mean they are a fairly important part of the package.
I would have to agree. I did rush it, and attempted to put the front pipe on with no assistance and nothing to hold the pipe up in the back. I ended up getting frustrated with the 100 degree heat in the garage and just started cranking down on the nut in an effort to keep SOMETHING in place for once. That was all it took. Once that stud was stripped out, I was pretty much screwed.

I wonder about the stud being locked in place like that though. Let's just say I don't believe the MC does its job all the time. My bike came without nuts on the rear head pipe when I picked it up. Who knows what else they forgot (a little anti-seize maybe? )
 
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:04 AM
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Ah, I love happy endings.

 
  #33  
Old 05-14-2010, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
The only reason you should be concerned is if you (probably) rush yourself trying to install a new exhaust system and end up cross threading the flange nuts. No offense to the OP.

On the other hand, would you really WANT the studs to come out easy? I mean they are a fairly important part of the package.
Everything I've ever heard on studs is "FINGER TIGHT" only. The reason(s) they probably stuck in there is, a) The original assmbler was too lazy or forgetful to use never-sneeze, b) They studs themselves were tightened in more than they should have been and/or, c) Electrolysis. The stud is steel, the head is aluminum. Those two metals really don't like each other. At all.

Which is a another good reason to use never-seize on your spark plugs. Steel plug + aluminum head = Potential problems. On plugs, just don't get carried away with it. The electrode and/or anode on plugs don't get along too well with never seize if it gets on either.
 
  #34  
Old 05-14-2010, 04:58 PM
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i remember an old post a few years back where the machine shop used an engraving tool to work the stud out the vibration and the constant chisel motion works the stuck stud out the guy could not belive it until he seen it with his own eyes!!!!!!
 
  #35  
Old 05-14-2010, 05:54 PM
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get a 5/16" stud remover or 8mm, same thing. put it on and remove it with a wratchet. do it the right way. Why take a chance of breaking it off in the head and then having to remove the head and take it to a machine shop where they will nail you again. You can buy the whole set for under 100.00. I saw the one with the picture but they make one that has internal self adjusting teeth so as you twist it it gets tighter on the material, just unbolt the stud then replace it and you can use it to re-install the new one. You've got way too much invested to do it half assed. I guess I'm just an old die hard but with 100k+ worth of tools I just reach into my tool box and get what I need to do it right the first time. Don't get mad at me, I'm just trying to help-----jack
 

Last edited by jaxdwg; 05-14-2010 at 06:05 PM. Reason: addition
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