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Stripping paint

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  #11  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by greenstreetbob
You can use the media for quite a while. The paint chips won't be visible. The media will get down in the areas where the rivets are...just make sure you wash it well afterwards. Then wash it again.
I kind of figured but wasn't sure. A cabinet would make reclaiming the media much easier. Appreciate the info.
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:40 PM
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I assume you know that you have to have an air compressor. Anyway, the media comes out of the nozzle and hits the part, then it all gathers at the bottom where it is sucked up through the tube again. Sometimes you have to shake the cabinet to resettle the media. Just trying to provide enough info to help. I highly recommend you go this route. Good luck.
 
  #13  
Old 03-15-2010, 08:49 PM
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lol... Almost every time I have asked a painter to take it down to the metal I get the same answer, no need, "just scuff cote and spray"...
I can tell you the paint on my new rear fender was not easy to glass bead... Hope it goes well. Have a glass bead cabinet at the shop, barely big enough for the fender, but it worked.
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by greenstreetbob
I assume you know that you have to have an air compressor. Anyway, the media comes out of the nozzle and hits the part, then it all gathers at the bottom where it is sucked up through the tube again. Sometimes you have to shake the cabinet to resettle the media. Just trying to provide enough info to help. I highly recommend you go this route. Good luck.
A serious air compressor with fairly high CFM to provide enough air for glass beading.
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by greenstreetbob
I assume you know that you have to have an air compressor. Anyway, the media comes out of the nozzle and hits the part, then it all gathers at the bottom where it is sucked up through the tube again. Sometimes you have to shake the cabinet to resettle the media. Just trying to provide enough info to help. I highly recommend you go this route. Good luck.
Yeah, I know. The mech/painter has some huge compressors.

Does the air have to stay connected all the time? I guess you fill the tank with media, then pressurize and away you go. When you run out of pressure, just hook the air line back up. At least that's what I'm thinking is possible.

Originally Posted by 8541hog
lol... Almost every time I have asked a painter to take it down to the metal I get the same answer, no need, "just scuff cote and spray"...
I can tell you the paint on my new rear fender was not easy to glass bead... Hope it goes well. Have a glass bead cabinet at the shop, barely big enough for the fender, but it worked.
I hope it goes well too... lol I'm going to bring my tank with me to Harbor Freight tomorrow. Test fit the cabinet they have. From memory it looks long enough but may be just shallow enough to be a pain in the ****.
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:07 PM
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No, you need constant air, it uses more air than probably any other tool that uses air. You also have to be able to maintain pressure, or it will not cut through the paint.
 
  #17  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
No, you need constant air, it uses more air than probably any other tool that uses air. You also have to be able to maintain pressure, or it will not cut through the paint.
Ahhh...well, the guy has let me use his shop after hours so if that's what I need to do so the other guys using air tools aren't prohibited from working that's what I'll do. They quit working at ~5pm.

I'm building a good rapport with the guy, so we'll see what happens.
 
  #18  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:18 PM
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A good body shop owner should your best friend...Wish I had one here in VA.
 
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:32 PM
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I've blasted a set of 13x7" wheels. It was a bitch of a project that I will never do again. Scuff 'em and shoot 'em, next time.

Will you have your tins painted before your planned ToD ride?
 
  #20  
Old 03-15-2010, 09:43 PM
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Watch out for sparks when blasting the gas tank.
 


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