Problem with HD layback mount kit
#1
Problem with HD layback mount kit
I did a Search but couldn't find this problem.
I got new Leather Pros saddlebags so I need to move my rear turn signals. I got the HD Layback mount & T/S relocation kit # 60215-06.
This is a lot more work then I bargained for. I have hit a brick wall, no matter what I do I cant get the wires to fit through the threaded end of the chrome turn signal bar. I put soap on the wires and even tried to drill out the holes in the bar to smooth it out a little and I still cant get the wires started. If I could get the wires in I will then need to turn the signal on to the bar and that will twist the wires inside the bar, I bet that's going to be frustrating too. Has any one installed this kit on your Dyna? How did you get the wires through the ends of the bar?...Thanks.
I got new Leather Pros saddlebags so I need to move my rear turn signals. I got the HD Layback mount & T/S relocation kit # 60215-06.
This is a lot more work then I bargained for. I have hit a brick wall, no matter what I do I cant get the wires to fit through the threaded end of the chrome turn signal bar. I put soap on the wires and even tried to drill out the holes in the bar to smooth it out a little and I still cant get the wires started. If I could get the wires in I will then need to turn the signal on to the bar and that will twist the wires inside the bar, I bet that's going to be frustrating too. Has any one installed this kit on your Dyna? How did you get the wires through the ends of the bar?...Thanks.
#2
Be careful,I also drilled out the rod to allow the wires to run thru, When I attached lights the ends of the rod were weakened and I snappede one off. You cannot buy that part by itself. So I bought another set and this time I removed the sheathing and fed each wire individually. Good luck.
#3
Thanks for the info. Now I know it's not just me having this problem. I didn't drill the ends out larger I just tried to smooth it out. The instructions don't show or say to strip off the sheathing from the wires, but like you, I don't see any other way to fit the wires in to the end of the bar. I don't like the idea of doing that but I cant see where I have a choice... Thanks.
#5
yup strip away the sheathing, I had allready had the hardware for the detachable sissy bar. which I had cut the wires so I had to solder on more wire to make my laydown plate holder work it took some time (an afternoon) but it worked out, just go slow and think it all out don't get discouaged, it will work out.
Last edited by dreamer65; 03-14-2010 at 03:17 PM.
#6
This is a little late but it might help someone else out. I just finished installing this part on my 08 FXDC.
Lessons Learned:
1) You will definately have to strip the sheathing off the wires.
2) You can use 3/16" polyolefin heat shrink tubing to replace it after you get them through the turn signal bar in step 16.
3) I think HD forgot something with this kit!
a) There is a 4" bolt sticking out on each side of my fender where my blinkers used to be.
b) The instructions don't say anything about what to do with it.
c) Called the local HD shop and they have no idea what to do with it.
d) Get a ride to the local HD shop and show them what I am talking about.
e) Finally we figure out how to fix it.
f) Buy two button torx cap screws (PN 94606-98). I bought four because the stock bolts toward the front of the bike are not chrome.
g) Talk parts guy into taking out the two inner fender mounting brackets out of PN 53961-06 and selling them to you for $10 instead of spending $41.95 on the whole kit.
h) Replace old brackets with new brackets (which are tapped on both ends) install your torx head cap screws and continue your installation.
This was a big let down because you really need the bolt in the rear. So an $80 kit actually ended up costing over $110 once you buy the other crap you need. Hopefully this helps someone else.
Lessons Learned:
1) You will definately have to strip the sheathing off the wires.
2) You can use 3/16" polyolefin heat shrink tubing to replace it after you get them through the turn signal bar in step 16.
3) I think HD forgot something with this kit!
a) There is a 4" bolt sticking out on each side of my fender where my blinkers used to be.
b) The instructions don't say anything about what to do with it.
c) Called the local HD shop and they have no idea what to do with it.
d) Get a ride to the local HD shop and show them what I am talking about.
e) Finally we figure out how to fix it.
f) Buy two button torx cap screws (PN 94606-98). I bought four because the stock bolts toward the front of the bike are not chrome.
g) Talk parts guy into taking out the two inner fender mounting brackets out of PN 53961-06 and selling them to you for $10 instead of spending $41.95 on the whole kit.
h) Replace old brackets with new brackets (which are tapped on both ends) install your torx head cap screws and continue your installation.
This was a big let down because you really need the bolt in the rear. So an $80 kit actually ended up costing over $110 once you buy the other crap you need. Hopefully this helps someone else.
#7
Same here. Stripped the sheathing off, feed the wires though, then slide shrink tubing back over the wires and into the bar about an inch or so to protect the wires from the hole.
Note that I was able to feed the right signal wires all the way through to the left side exit hole so that I didn't have it running under the bracket. Much cleaner this way. Just have to pull the wires up a touch inside the bracket to allow access to the mounting bolts. It's really close, but mine fit.
Note that I was able to feed the right signal wires all the way through to the left side exit hole so that I didn't have it running under the bracket. Much cleaner this way. Just have to pull the wires up a touch inside the bracket to allow access to the mounting bolts. It's really close, but mine fit.
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#8
Same here. Stripped the sheathing off, feed the wires though, then slide shrink tubing back over the wires and into the bar about an inch or so to protect the wires from the hole.
Note that I was able to feed the right signal wires all the way through to the left side exit hole so that I didn't have it running under the bracket. Much cleaner this way. Just have to pull the wires up a touch inside the bracket to allow access to the mounting bolts. It's really close, but mine fit.
Note that I was able to feed the right signal wires all the way through to the left side exit hole so that I didn't have it running under the bracket. Much cleaner this way. Just have to pull the wires up a touch inside the bracket to allow access to the mounting bolts. It's really close, but mine fit.
#10
Note that I was able to feed the right signal wires all the way through to the left side exit hole so that I didn't have it running under the bracket. Much cleaner this way. Just have to pull the wires up a touch inside the bracket to allow access to the mounting bolts. It's really close, but mine fit.
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