When I installed my WG trees it took about 5 minutes to get it just right with the fall away method. It's best done with the caliper removed and suspended so that it doesn't influence the adjustment any. The pinch bolts on the top tree need to be loose so that the tree can move up and down on the tubes. With the front of the bike jacked up and the wheel centered easily push the wheel to the left and right. The wheel should move about an inch or so before it free falls to either side. Use a long skinny flat head screw driver and hammer to adjust the nut until you get the results that you are looking for. Once you get the nut set where you like it torque up the top clamp nut and the top pinch bolts. To loose of a setting can cause frontend shake or shimmy when you hit a bump or around a curve and to tight a setting can cause also cause problems.

 

leaning to the left..Ok. 1 your primary side is heavier than the other side, 2 the routing of the clutch cable could effect this. 3 could be you sit crooked on the bike(I actually do a little bit according to my wife when she is perched on the back) 4 could be the bikes misaligned. I have had several bars on my bike and noticed that the way my clutch cable sits has an effect on the bikes left turn/leaning left feel. the cable will effect how the fallout comes about so of course when all tightened up, it will effect the feel of the steering if one is observant enough to notice this. If your cable pulls away from the tree it will pull the bike left, if it presses against the tree it will push the steering right a little causing it to feel stiffer turning left. Also correct alignment is within 1 deg of perfect centered so this can have a small effect as well. And of course the steering could be a touch too tight. Let's not forget that roads are not perfectly level, this can be the cause as well.