Can you get the part number of what they are installing? There are few different big bore kits available. I had the 29893-07 which includes the jugs, pistons and cams. There are some kits that dont come with the cam, or an air cleaner. Get that part number to find out if its worth the money.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. Will get part # and post. I know nothing of cams and headwork. I like power period...low end for burnouts sounds great!
So what would you recommend I ask for...

 

Go here..... http://www.woodcarbs.com/ and spend some time. It says "Woods carbs" but the site is chock full of performance Cams, valve springs, etc. etc. They guy produces astounding cams for V-Twin engines. His TW408-6 cams and Knight Prowler springs go along with my 103 build to produce a torque curve that peaks at "only" 105Ftlbs athe rear wheel....... but, it hits 100 ftlbs at 2500RPM and does not drop below 100 ftlbs until about 6200RPM.

 

Insure you get automatic compression release added or you will be going thru starters. If not add the larger starter available stock is garbage. The stock starter has problems with the 96 let alone the 103.

 

When did ya go with those cams Centerline? Ya use to have them SE260's right! Good move...them 408's they're a bad a** set of cams (all of his are for that matter)! I tried the 400's in my 95 (4 degrees less @50 & 2 less on the intake close compared to your 408's), what a great set of cams...very strong torque! Alot of guys are scared of the aggressive ramps, but this is what makes power & is the modern cam design...

For the hot rod guys...Lunati voodoo series is the same way with the agressive ramps (modern lobes), I just ordered a solid roller cam for my 509 BB with .685 lift & 247 @ 50 after lash. F'n love the modern lobes!!!

 

An increase in cubic inches is fine, but if you don't invest in some head work, cams, and fine tune your intake and exhaust, you're just wasting your time.

 

mixed answers here "i'm lost"

 

Ya really have to look at the engine as an air pump, and you want to make it as efficient as possible.

If you only want a little increase in Hp/trq, then a simple 103" big bore might just do the trick for you.

But if you want to make it run "right" for your riding style, you have to consider every piece that affects the airflow through the engine:

1. Air filter
2. Intake (length and diameter)
3. Headwork:
a. porting and polish
b. valves
c. cams, lifters and springs.
4. Bore and stroke (cubic inches)
5. exhaust.

and the fuel ratio to go with it.

If you're doing it all on a budget, then you have two choices:
A. Buy the parts, store them until you have all the pieces you need, and then do the build and be absolutely friggin amazed at the power increase.
B. Buy the parts, and install them a 'section' at a time, and only realize small increases for each step.

If you're running a 96" and looking for big gains, you'll be better off beefing up the bottom end of the engine first.

 

I've seen this said a few times. Mind going into a little more detail? Seems lots of guys on here run in the 100-120 horse range without addressing the bottom end. I plan on some cams/head work here really soon without going BB.......and I don't want to destroy my crank doing so. Looking FOR 100/100 numbers at the wheel. Thanks!

 

I decided to stay 96ci for now, when I go bigger the crank will be balanced for the pistons going in. I did send my heads to Big Boyz for porting, they're done now and I'm just waiting to get them back.