Decrapifying my Dyna.
#51
02-09-2010, 01:45 PM
#52
02-09-2010, 01:55 PM
Modified your diagram slightly...added protection and isolation, and retained the lights on the ACC circuit, for the dreaded "breakdown on the side of the highway at night needing lights without making the coil hot". Could not overwrite fuse AMP rating text into your pic, but just look at your old fusebox to see the AMP rating needed for each circuit, and copy.
#53
02-09-2010, 03:12 PM
punk if you're taking suggestions on what to do with the big open space left on ure bike might i suggest picking up a old-school chopper style oil bag to mount in there.
since you wouldn't exactly need it for oil...you could fab up a hinge and make one end of it a kind of trap door...a simple key lock and viola! you've got yourself a very discreet one-off storage bag.
since you wouldn't exactly need it for oil...you could fab up a hinge and make one end of it a kind of trap door...a simple key lock and viola! you've got yourself a very discreet one-off storage bag.
#55
02-09-2010, 03:36 PM
#56
02-09-2010, 03:43 PM
my bad, i missed the posts where you mentioned it.
yeah i think it'd be a pretty trick little number on the bike.
i stopped in to my indy last week to see them wiring up my bars/turn sig mirrors/headlight/rear turn sigs and now seeing what you're doing to your bike makes me feel like i'm riding an electrical fire waiting to happen
yeah i think it'd be a pretty trick little number on the bike.
i stopped in to my indy last week to see them wiring up my bars/turn sig mirrors/headlight/rear turn sigs and now seeing what you're doing to your bike makes me feel like i'm riding an electrical fire waiting to happen
#57
02-09-2010, 03:50 PM
I appreciate you taking the time to look it over and make some adjustments. Unfortunately, I drew the original diagram wrong. My ignition switch doesn't have a separate ACC terminal. Just Battery, Acc(ignition), Starter, and Push to Choke(Horn). The light circuit has to be run off the ignition terminal. What are the symbols you added to the diagram? Are those fuses that I need to find out the amperage for? Thanks again.
Yes, the symbols are fuses, you decide the AMPS, and I re-routed the headlight to have separate protection.
Separate protection is great, as it allows you to get home if just one system shorts, rather than taking out everything else mated to that circuit.
Honestly, I have always wired my tail, brake and headlight to be powered anytime the key is "ON (ACC)", but not on the IGN circuit. That way you can light up on the side of the road without heating up the coil.
The key switches I use are always:
ACC(brakelight, taillight, horn, headlight, fuel guage) -
OFF (dead) -
IGN (ign. system/coil) -
START (momentary power to START solenoid or relay).
The START position returns back to IGN. position when released, which in turn powers everything on both ACC and IGN. Also, these switches KILL everything on ACC position during START, to provdide max power to the starter and ignition system during cranking.
I also always install a 3-position OFF - LOW - HIGH headlight switch, as I am old school and don't run a headlight in the day.
Last edited by Lama; 02-09-2010 at 03:53 PM.
#58
02-09-2010, 04:06 PM
Road Warrior
Yes, the symbols are fuses, you decide the AMPS, and I re-routed the headlight to have separate protection.
Separate protection is great, as it allows you to get home if just one system shorts, rather than taking out everything else mated to that circuit.
Honestly, I have always wired my tail, brake and headlight to be powered anytime the key is "ON (ACC)", but not on the IGN circuit. That way you can light up on the side of the road without heating up the coil.
The key switches I use are always:
ACC(brakelight, taillight, horn, headlight, fuel guage) -
OFF (dead) -
IGN (ign. system/coil) -
START (momentary power to START solenoid or relay).
The START position returns back to IGN. position when released, which in turn powers everything on both ACC and IGN. Also, these switches KILL everything on ACC position during START, to provdide max power to the starter and ignition system during cranking.
I also always install a 3-position OFF - LOW - HIGH headlight switch, as I am old school and don't run a headlight in the day.
Separate protection is great, as it allows you to get home if just one system shorts, rather than taking out everything else mated to that circuit.
Honestly, I have always wired my tail, brake and headlight to be powered anytime the key is "ON (ACC)", but not on the IGN circuit. That way you can light up on the side of the road without heating up the coil.
The key switches I use are always:
ACC(brakelight, taillight, horn, headlight, fuel guage) -
OFF (dead) -
IGN (ign. system/coil) -
START (momentary power to START solenoid or relay).
The START position returns back to IGN. position when released, which in turn powers everything on both ACC and IGN. Also, these switches KILL everything on ACC position during START, to provdide max power to the starter and ignition system during cranking.
I also always install a 3-position OFF - LOW - HIGH headlight switch, as I am old school and don't run a headlight in the day.
#60
02-10-2010, 10:58 AM