Decrapifying my Dyna.
#31
02-08-2010, 06:19 PM
just couldnt figure out an easy way for the cables.
sure would be sweet though.
CP you are a brave man, wiring scares the **** outta me!
good luck!
#34
02-08-2010, 10:39 PM
You and me both, dude. I've never done this before, but you gotta start somewhere. How else am I going to learn, right?
Same here. I don't hate them as much as I did now that the bike is slammed, but they're just not Me. I'll get it figured out though.
#36
02-08-2010, 10:45 PM
#37
02-09-2010, 08:19 AM
I'm posting this here not only so I know where to find it later, but I'm sure some of ya'll wouldn't mind the information either. This is from Irish Rich, if ya don't know who he is, do a search... He's the dogs bollocks.
It looks like I will also need to bump up the amperage of the fuse on my lighting circuit:
* The "B" treminal is your 10ga hot wire from the battery/30amp main breaker
* The "A" terminal will feed a hot wire to your coil, the hot wire for your lighting circuit, and the hot wire for your brake light switch
* The "S" terminal will be the wire that feeds to your starter solinoid's "Terminal 50" - the same terminal on your starter motor that was fed by the wire from your "87" prong of your old starter relay
* The "C" terminal on your switch is the one that goes hot when you push the key in when the key is in the "on" or "start" position. If it was on a boat, this is the terminal that would feed the electric choke. If you wire in a horn, you can use the "C" terminal to feed the horn, and it will blow when you push in the key in the "on" or "start" position
* The "M" terminal with the threaded insert gets a wire from a chassis ground, and the other "M" terminal is the wire that goes to your ground stud on your magneto. It grounds out the mag when you turn the key to "off".
If you don't have a magneto, you don't have to connect anything to the "M" terminals. You also don't have to connect anything to the "C" terminal if you don't run a horn.
Do yourself a favor, and fuse each individual circuit feed wire coming from the "A" terminal when you run them.
* The "A" terminal will feed a hot wire to your coil, the hot wire for your lighting circuit, and the hot wire for your brake light switch
* The "S" terminal will be the wire that feeds to your starter solinoid's "Terminal 50" - the same terminal on your starter motor that was fed by the wire from your "87" prong of your old starter relay
* The "C" terminal on your switch is the one that goes hot when you push the key in when the key is in the "on" or "start" position. If it was on a boat, this is the terminal that would feed the electric choke. If you wire in a horn, you can use the "C" terminal to feed the horn, and it will blow when you push in the key in the "on" or "start" position
* The "M" terminal with the threaded insert gets a wire from a chassis ground, and the other "M" terminal is the wire that goes to your ground stud on your magneto. It grounds out the mag when you turn the key to "off".
If you don't have a magneto, you don't have to connect anything to the "M" terminals. You also don't have to connect anything to the "C" terminal if you don't run a horn.
Do yourself a favor, and fuse each individual circuit feed wire coming from the "A" terminal when you run them.
15a should be OK for the breakers, unless you want to run a halogen headlamp, then step up to a 20a for the lights. If you run an LED tail lamp, with the halogen headlamp, you can run the 15a OK. I use a 30a main circuit breaker, and then I use ATO inline fuses for the branch circuits - easier to hide them around the bike.
Last edited by CountryPunk; 02-09-2010 at 08:23 AM.
#38
02-09-2010, 08:33 AM
From what I am looking at, with proper size of wire, it looks good. Great job CountryPunk!
#39
02-09-2010, 08:38 AM
#40
02-09-2010, 09:01 AM
