Bike throwing a code?? Help..
#32
#33
Adrian, as txtec (hook'em horns!) said, check plug wires for good connection. When was the last time you put in new plugs?
Hard to say whether P1353 is new or old. One way to rule it out would be to drive the bike and make it cut out again, then recheck the codes. Also make sure you check all of the codes, not just the 'P' codes.
Intermittent problems are the worst to find. I'd start by making sure all of your battery and chassis ground connections are tight, then take a close look at all of the wiring you touched during your bar swap (or any other recent work). You're looking for a kink in the wire, or a spot where the insulation has worn through.
Please keep us up to date on your progress, and let us know if there are any other symptoms, codes, or clues.
Good Luck, and Happy Holidays,
Rat
Hard to say whether P1353 is new or old. One way to rule it out would be to drive the bike and make it cut out again, then recheck the codes. Also make sure you check all of the codes, not just the 'P' codes.
Intermittent problems are the worst to find. I'd start by making sure all of your battery and chassis ground connections are tight, then take a close look at all of the wiring you touched during your bar swap (or any other recent work). You're looking for a kink in the wire, or a spot where the insulation has worn through.
Please keep us up to date on your progress, and let us know if there are any other symptoms, codes, or clues.
Good Luck, and Happy Holidays,
Rat
#34
Adrian, as txtec (hook'em horns!) said, check plug wires for good connection. When was the last time you put in new plugs?
Hard to say whether P1353 is new or old. One way to rule it out would be to drive the bike and make it cut out again, then recheck the codes. Also make sure you check all of the codes, not just the 'P' codes.
Intermittent problems are the worst to find. I'd start by making sure all of your battery and chassis ground connections are tight, then take a close look at all of the wiring you touched during your bar swap (or any other recent work). You're looking for a kink in the wire, or a spot where the insulation has worn through.
Please keep us up to date on your progress, and let us know if there are any other symptoms, codes, or clues.
Good Luck, and Happy Holidays,
Rat
Hard to say whether P1353 is new or old. One way to rule it out would be to drive the bike and make it cut out again, then recheck the codes. Also make sure you check all of the codes, not just the 'P' codes.
Intermittent problems are the worst to find. I'd start by making sure all of your battery and chassis ground connections are tight, then take a close look at all of the wiring you touched during your bar swap (or any other recent work). You're looking for a kink in the wire, or a spot where the insulation has worn through.
Please keep us up to date on your progress, and let us know if there are any other symptoms, codes, or clues.
Good Luck, and Happy Holidays,
Rat
Hmm.. I aslo just changed plugs probably about 4 thousand miles ago, so they should still be good. I'll check to make sure they are plugged correctly though.
#35
#36
Since you mentioned "p1353 code is for a front cyl missfire"
you might just check to see if indeed this is evident, so pull both plugs and compare em. You should see a normal light tan/grey/brownish color very light if all is normal. If you were truely misfiring you generally don't just misfire at only a certain rpm range. So if you are actually misfiring then your front plug should be a little gunked up with wet deposits of muck or flakey charcoal deposits. I gotta feeling your not gonna find that, your squawk doens't meet the criteria.
I'd be more apt to vibe/wiring/loose connection/chaffe issue. Loose plug wire, maybe, put some diaelectric grease on those terminal ends too, both sides, both cyls.
Did some wiring/handlebar work did ya, I'd be interested to see if it's not necessarily a getting on the motor/a certain rpm range but more of a degree of throttle position, as in a wire connection issue at a certain range of throttle at the grips.
I noticed you got a power commander also, might want to verify the harness run on that is nice and tight and you don't have a wire that has been rubbing through.
Also, don't know your mech background but don't pull those plugs if you've ran that motor recently, motor needs to be cool, and plugs don't need to be real tight going in, I don't torque mine, but after 25 years of changing plugs I know I only give about a half turn more past hand tight, aluminum loves to strip out, and an added bonus, when you put those plugs back in, put some anti-seize on em, you'll thank yourself next time they come out.
If all else fails, I start from square one personally, and I start undoing/backtracking each thing I have done, and if that means pulling that power commander out and reconnecting those o2 sensors to eliminate an issue there, then I'd do that too.
You may not fix that bike this minute, but your sure gonna learn that ride inside and out with this forum.
you might just check to see if indeed this is evident, so pull both plugs and compare em. You should see a normal light tan/grey/brownish color very light if all is normal. If you were truely misfiring you generally don't just misfire at only a certain rpm range. So if you are actually misfiring then your front plug should be a little gunked up with wet deposits of muck or flakey charcoal deposits. I gotta feeling your not gonna find that, your squawk doens't meet the criteria.
I'd be more apt to vibe/wiring/loose connection/chaffe issue. Loose plug wire, maybe, put some diaelectric grease on those terminal ends too, both sides, both cyls.
Did some wiring/handlebar work did ya, I'd be interested to see if it's not necessarily a getting on the motor/a certain rpm range but more of a degree of throttle position, as in a wire connection issue at a certain range of throttle at the grips.
I noticed you got a power commander also, might want to verify the harness run on that is nice and tight and you don't have a wire that has been rubbing through.
Also, don't know your mech background but don't pull those plugs if you've ran that motor recently, motor needs to be cool, and plugs don't need to be real tight going in, I don't torque mine, but after 25 years of changing plugs I know I only give about a half turn more past hand tight, aluminum loves to strip out, and an added bonus, when you put those plugs back in, put some anti-seize on em, you'll thank yourself next time they come out.
If all else fails, I start from square one personally, and I start undoing/backtracking each thing I have done, and if that means pulling that power commander out and reconnecting those o2 sensors to eliminate an issue there, then I'd do that too.
You may not fix that bike this minute, but your sure gonna learn that ride inside and out with this forum.
#37
Since you mentioned "p1353 code is for a front cyl missfire"
you might just check to see if indeed this is evident, so pull both plugs and compare em. You should see a normal light tan/grey/brownish color very light if all is normal. If you were truely misfiring you generally don't just misfire at only a certain rpm range. So if you are actually misfiring then your front plug should be a little gunked up with wet deposits of muck or flakey charcoal deposits. I gotta feeling your not gonna find that, your squawk doens't meet the criteria.
I'd be more apt to vibe/wiring/loose connection/chaffe issue. Loose plug wire, maybe, put some diaelectric grease on those terminal ends too, both sides, both cyls.
Did some wiring/handlebar work did ya, I'd be interested to see if it's not necessarily a getting on the motor/a certain rpm range but more of a degree of throttle position, as in a wire connection issue at a certain range of throttle at the grips.
I noticed you got a power commander also, might want to verify the harness run on that is nice and tight and you don't have a wire that has been rubbing through.
Also, don't know your mech background but don't pull those plugs if you've ran that motor recently, motor needs to be cool, and plugs don't need to be real tight going in, I don't torque mine, but after 25 years of changing plugs I know I only give about a half turn more past hand tight, aluminum loves to strip out, and an added bonus, when you put those plugs back in, put some anti-seize on em, you'll thank yourself next time they come out.
If all else fails, I start from square one personally, and I start undoing/backtracking each thing I have done, and if that means pulling that power commander out and reconnecting those o2 sensors to eliminate an issue there, then I'd do that too.
You may not fix that bike this minute, but your sure gonna learn that ride inside and out with this forum.
you might just check to see if indeed this is evident, so pull both plugs and compare em. You should see a normal light tan/grey/brownish color very light if all is normal. If you were truely misfiring you generally don't just misfire at only a certain rpm range. So if you are actually misfiring then your front plug should be a little gunked up with wet deposits of muck or flakey charcoal deposits. I gotta feeling your not gonna find that, your squawk doens't meet the criteria.
I'd be more apt to vibe/wiring/loose connection/chaffe issue. Loose plug wire, maybe, put some diaelectric grease on those terminal ends too, both sides, both cyls.
Did some wiring/handlebar work did ya, I'd be interested to see if it's not necessarily a getting on the motor/a certain rpm range but more of a degree of throttle position, as in a wire connection issue at a certain range of throttle at the grips.
I noticed you got a power commander also, might want to verify the harness run on that is nice and tight and you don't have a wire that has been rubbing through.
Also, don't know your mech background but don't pull those plugs if you've ran that motor recently, motor needs to be cool, and plugs don't need to be real tight going in, I don't torque mine, but after 25 years of changing plugs I know I only give about a half turn more past hand tight, aluminum loves to strip out, and an added bonus, when you put those plugs back in, put some anti-seize on em, you'll thank yourself next time they come out.
If all else fails, I start from square one personally, and I start undoing/backtracking each thing I have done, and if that means pulling that power commander out and reconnecting those o2 sensors to eliminate an issue there, then I'd do that too.
You may not fix that bike this minute, but your sure gonna learn that ride inside and out with this forum.
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