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Winter Mod...Doing away with Switch Housings for good

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  #31  
Old 01-12-2010, 01:49 PM
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you can eliminate the on/off switch and just shut it off with the key, and put a small toggle switch under,behind the headlight bucket, then you only need 1 wire running into the headlight,, then you can keep the dash clean looking.. just an idea
 
  #32  
Old 01-12-2010, 07:07 PM
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Heres my install so far.

I went with both signals on the left and the start on the right (more room on the left for two buttons because of the throttle assembly on the right). My run/stop will be wired closed as well as my clutch. So far as I know, havent actually reached that point. My horn is goin bye bye and my hi/low will be a toggle installed in the head lamp. Don’t need a brake switch right now either. This is just how I wanted it, you could run whatever layout you wished. However, if you want a run/stop you’ll need a place for a toggle or a momentary converter for the push button.

This isn’t all the parts, just what was close when I was taking the pictures. I could list part numbers or specs if anyone wished. I can follow up later with the plug wiring and install too.

Probably end up being about a $200 job for me when all said and done. That’s with moding out stock controls. Im buying take offs and rounding em out and polishing em up. They’ll work for now.

Oh yeah, Id say the only special tools you need are a drill press and a tap.



 
  #33  
Old 01-12-2010, 08:08 PM
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There are very few mods that any of us are doing that truely go on the outer limits of being really cool and innovative. This is definately one of the cooler projects going on around here right now. Keep up the good work and keep up updated. I am anxious to see the final product.
 
  #34  
Old 01-13-2010, 08:43 AM
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I'm working on the same thing right now. I won't have any buttons or switches on the bars, just throttle and brake and clutch levers. I'm using stock levers and grinding off the fillets. I'm getting rid of All my factory wiring though by using the Thunderheart stand-alone ignition. I'm using a marine key-start with a push-to-choke that will activate the horn and a hi/lo toggle switch on the headlight. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do for a brake switch, whether it be lever activated or a banjo bolt brake switch.
 
  #35  
Old 01-13-2010, 10:08 AM
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good ideas in this thread. doing the same thing myself. gonna machine down the stock perches. wiring is done, just need to pick up new bars. everyones projects are looking real clean.
 
  #36  
Old 01-15-2010, 07:48 PM
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Switch install update.

Got the plugs wired on and Im happy to say, they WORK. : )

Damn those controls are ugly without those switch housings.





 
  #37  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:02 PM
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Given any thought to losing the idle return cable?
 
  #38  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:10 PM
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Joe376 -

Too bad you can't find an easy/cheap way to feather the edge of the handlebar clamps on the brake and clutch pulls ... that 'flare' that buts up against the switch housing seems to detract a little from an otherwise really clean appearance ... don't know if maybe you could get a shop to machine it down smoothly and maybe re-powder coat ...?

Just trying to throw an idea out there ... great job with what you've done ... really cleans it up!

R/
'Chop
 
  #39  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:17 PM
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Surfor,
Monday night, cutting, grinding and a lot of sanding. : ) We have an old mill at work I may try to use. Thanks for the compliments.


8541,
Yeah, actually I have but someone talked me into keeping it. Safety measure thing I guess. You have any experience running just a throttle cable?
 
  #40  
Old 01-15-2010, 08:20 PM
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Nice guys. If I had the ingenuity to do that I might. If anyone needs JM stuff PM us for a great price and take the Dr. V-Twin challenge. If you are local and pay cash and p/u, even a better discount.
 


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