I would not call a good dyno tune a "waste of money". You have a $15,000 (or more) machine - how could paying $300 or so for it to run better or more efficiently be a waste?
You've spent far more on handlebars, exhausts, fairings, bags, etc...
(like me you've had multiple setups - one set of handlebars nearly pays for your tune)

I also have a PowerVision and while I agree FuelMoto has excellent support and helped by providing good maps their maps combined with my auto tune sessiions DO NOT compare to my dyno tune.

Yes I did gain some more HP & TQ but thats not even what I'm talking about...the smoothness of delivery of power is so much better...the dreaded decel pop is GONE and the bike sounds better.

I ran my bike on the dyno a couple of times to see what the numbers were and to see where I had dips and peaks.
After a dyno tune the dips and peaks were gone, numbers were even better and I'm at or near peak torque from 2200 rpm all the way to 4500 rpm.
good smooth strong USABLE power.
Now THAT is NOT a waste of money!

I've seen some dyno tune results that I would agree were a waste of money - a few peaks - maybe a high max HP number - but at an rpm range you'd never get to - massive dips in the lower range where you actually want power....

Do not overlook the importance of a good tune.
Canned maps and "auto tuning" cannot replace a dyno tune by someone who knows what they are doing.

 

I run the d&d fatcat and like it a lot. Looks great sounds great, and performs very well. as american said...you shouldnt have an issue running any exhaust with the longer shocks. I also had to space the muffler on my fatcat out a little. I just got longer bolts and 1/4 inch spacers. very simple and easy.

 

X2. A good dyno tune done by a competent tuner can make a world of difference. Not just in peak numbers but in a much better running bike. Not a waste at all in my opinion.

 

I had my bike dyno'd after my cam job, and I totally agree the tune is way better than what I could have done on my own with the PV. My point was that for just intake and exhaust, it's a bit overkill (IMO) considering the cost since you need to buy a tuner for the dyno anyway. Might as well use the auto tune to dial in the VE and save the $400 for a good dyno after a cam job or heads or whatever down the road. Calling it a waste was a poor choice of words.

 

Ok I do see your point.
If someone was getting cams or other engine work in the near future I agree it would be best to wait so not to pay for the dyno tune twice.
In that case good advice.

If like me you're going to wait until next year to drop in cams I think the $300 I spent was well worth it.

Cheers.

 

Thanks for the advise everyone. I do plan to further modify in the not so distant future so I'll probably wait on the dyno. The PV looks pretty sweet. I'm slightly intimidated by its function but I'm sure I'll get it down. Is it fairly easy to install, or should I plan on having it installed professionally?

Any suggestions on where to get a good dyno in SoCal? I'm in Long Beach but when the time comes, I'll be willing to travel a bit to ensure I get a quality job.

 

Emerican, is that the Rifle Roadster fairing? If so, how do you like it? What's size bars do you have? I ordered one a few weeks ago, but it hasn't arrived yet.

 

My question is: Where the hell are you guys getting $300 dyno runs?! Around here, they start about $500 and go up from there.

 

Yes it is. My bars are 14.5" and the 15" windshield blocks everything just fine. I ran the 18" shield at first, but i got crazy buffeting.

 

I exaggerated I guess to make my point:

It's actually $350 at RC Cycles in Hayward.
Dyno Bob is the man in NorCal.

$50 per run with no tuning.