My IPB went out and it sounded like a coffee grinder at the grocery store that you use to grind your own coffee.

 

Tony,
be patient. The upside is you'll be all fixed up when theyre done

Rick, are you sure the inner cover drillings and the trans drillings line up? I'm wondering if theyre for 10mm alignment pins or if they were for jig plate alignment during the machining process. Cant tell by the photos if they're actually bolt holes or not. If they are, try 10mm or 3/8's sleeves and go for it.

 

They are bigger than 3/8 or 10 mm. With my super accurate plastic calipers it measures out to .400. If I can find a dowel I'll mock it up with the bearing installed and see how smoothly it slides together. If it's a fight I'll skip them and just go with the new bearing.

Here's the noise maker.......



Makes you wonder if it's really an alignment issue or just junk bearings.

 

Sure hope that gets ya all fixed up, Topspin.

 

Rick, its not an issue of using junk bearings (although yours is wasted). Part of it is from the same problem JoeK has in his thread, the race walks into the trans. If you dont have the required .100 spacing between the race and the trans, the bearing wants to run funny on the race. Granted, Joe's is extreme, but not unheard of. Its one of the reasons the Moco went back to loctiting the races on later models along with pinning the primary. Even then, they will walk if they cop an attitude.

I like the full bearing that Baker and Jim's uses. The only downside is the inner race isnt pressed onto the input shaft, which could be a good thing as long as the bearing gets plenty of oil. I havent seen one fail yet, but I havent seen that many in use either (or at least ones that need to be torn apart).

Also, 10mm mics out at .394. Next size up is 7/16ths (11mm) at .435 (.433)
Try a 10mm OD split sleeve, open it up with a screw driver and jam it in the hole (friction fit).

And your plastic caliper is just fine. It will give you the same ball park reading my NSK will

 

It's the lack of press fit that has me curious. I was under the assumption the clutch butted up against the race. I'm guessing this is not the case.

 

Definitely an alignment issue. I sent the pics from several failed IPBs to a bearing engineer who is a failure analysis expert.(30 years experience) He confirmed it is definitely an alignment issue from the marks on the race & rollers. This type of roller bearing has very little tolerance to misalignment. The engineer said the size of the bearing for the application is fine and with no misalignment the bearing should go well over 100,000 miles easily. With misalignment it won't last 20,000.

 

Anyone on here local to Simpsonville/Greenville SC thats good at working on these IPB and etc..? Not having a problem with mine at the moment but would be good to know there's help around here besides the stealership.

 

You have all the help you need right here. If you can turn a wrench you can do the bearing. Get a FACTORY tech manual and figure out how to read it. I don't mean that as a slam, you have to jump around in the book to get all the needed info to do the job.

 

Still waiting... the gear set is shipped but they forgot the race... 3rd weekend without the bike. Bike has been down a total of 7 weeks in 2 years. Warranty ends on Oct. 6.
Customer service does NOTHING for their customers. I'm starting to hate my bike. My guess is you'll find me on the Raider Forum as soon as my bike is fixed. I know it's not a Harley but I need the wind in my face, I need reliability and I need a company that gives a s***. Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrg!