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I reused mine. I ran a tap through the threads and cleaned them up some, applied red lock tite to the bolts and torque them back to spec. Been about 8000 miles and I have not had an issue yet. Following the advice of someone on this forum I marked the bolts so I could visually verify they were not backing out before I ride. If I have to remove the pulley again I will replace the bolts, but with either new or reused bolts I would think cleaning the threads in the wheel before reinstalling the bolts would help stop some of these issues.
You also run the risk of enlarging the hole and removing thread section when using a tap. Some taps are also oversized as well. If you know what you are doing, then knock yourself out, but threads are more complex then most people understand. If you reduce the % of contact the threads in aluminum can pull out under load without any indication of rotation on safety wire or paint dots. Each time these bolts are removed, replaced and retorqued the aluminum threads get pulled and weakend as well, so no matter how careful one is damage occurs. It's just the way it is, but knowing this kind of stuff can save a lot of grief later. Unfortunately it all stems from a design fault. Bolts should only be used to clamp the sprocket. Dowels should be installed between the bolts to carry the shear loads and not work the bolts.
Ron
Well it looks like this has been happening for a long time with a lot of bikes. I sure don't see any harm for a friendly reminder about this belt/sprocket thing as this could be a safety issue in my opinion. Maybe it should be a sticky for a reminder --for us all.
Well it looks like this has been happening for a long time with a lot of bikes. I sure don't see any harm for a friendly reminder about this belt/sprocket thing as this could be a safety issue in my opinion. Maybe it should be a sticky for a reminder --for us all.
thanks for the reminder....never hurts to pass on this type of info.
It seems that most of the people having a problem have had these bolts removed at one time (why anyone would remove for a simple tire change is hard to understand)
The shop that changed my tires, could'nt put the wheel on their machine with the pulley and rotor attached.
Spoke to an HD engineer one evening over a beer. His explanation on this is these bolts have an applied thread locker that is not lock tite but a coating that better resists vibration and centrifugal force, when they are removed the bolt is over torqued due to this coating. These bolts due have a shear rating low enough so if they do back out and hit the swing arm they shear and resist locking up the rear wheel this is why they recommend replacement when removed as the coating is damaged and the bolt has been stretched during removal. It seems that most of the people having a problem have had these bolts removed at one time (why anyone would remove for a simple tire change is hard to understand) Please don't flame me I am just passing on what he said but, I have religiously checked mine every 1,000 miles for 15,000 miles and have not seen them come loose however I will continue to do this.
I am going to go with the grade eight bolts screw the grade five. I ruined a hub over these things coming loose and shearing or just plane shearing.
the whole ordeal costed me over 600 dollars.
what you posted sounds pretty logical. I am suprized they haven't came up with something to keep them from backing out as it seems such an issue.