Hey all:

My ship got underway from a port visit to NAVSTA San Diego 26 May on deployment in support of Teamwork South and Southern Seas 2009 (SOUTHPAC). Will be Out of CONtinental U.S. (or OCONUS) for the summer … have pretty limited bandwidth on the frigate, so probably not much in the way of posting either, unless in port where we have good internet service.

Been contemplating some mods I’d like to do upon my return …

SCREAMIN EAGLE KIT CYLINDER HEADS BLACK (P/N 16952-08)
ANDREWS 44 CHAIN-DRIVE CAMS
KIT COMPRESSION RELEASE (P/N 32076-04)
SE 50MM THROTTLE BODY (P/N 27623-05)
QUICK INSTALL PUSHROD KIT (P/N 17997-99A)
CRANKCASE BREATHER VALVE (Drag Specialties P/N 2018-2909)
TC SOFTAIL 00-06 2-INTO-1 HEADPIPE SET (Paughco P/N 733C8)

Also considering going LARGE, but the above (throw in some gaskets and fluids, etc.) would cost around $1,800 to $2,000 doing the work by myself (sourcing most of the stuff through Zanotti) so, not sure if I will part with the incremental cost of the Big Bore job …

I think that with increased compression and the improved airflow from heads (larger valves), throttle body, cams and exhaust I should be able to squeeze some good TQ/HP improvement without going big … and will give me something to do the following winter … LOL

BY THE WAY – does anyone look at the MoCo’s ’09 Screamin’ Eagle Pro Racing Parts catalog? (It’s on the MoCo website ….)

Some pretty good general stuff on pp. 04 – 06 (on the .pdf file pp. 6 – 8) … for example:

At p. 04 (.pdf p. 6) – a graph of “The General Effects of Cam Timing on Engine Performance” should help some of y’all select a cam.

At p. 06 (.pdf p. 8) – a graph of “The General Effects of Compression Ratio on Engine Performance” helps with one’s understanding of this topic ….

- And some good tech tips: “For a given compression ratio, cams with an early intake valve closing value will likely require higher octane fuel than cams with a later intake valve closing value.”

- Also a lot of times I hear guys say “does anyone have a dyno sheet of ‘what if’ you did XXX [engine mod]? The catalog has a wealth of dyno graphs (not in the greatest detail, but good enough to get a general perspective). Also seems to indicate that a stock 88” produces approx 72 TQ and 59 HP; and, that a stock 96 produces approx 78 TQ and 65 HP.

Pretty good stuff if you haven’t looked at it.

Well that’s all for now folks … will write more when I get some more bandwidth … stay cool!

R/
Chop (fka “Priest”)

 

I am in the Navy myself, stationed Vandenberg AFB. Be safe on your deployment.

 

You'd probably do better with porting,etc on your stock heads. I never hear anything good about the SE heads.

Wish you well on your deployment and get home quick and safe.

 

You don't really need the bigger throttle body. And from experience, you can't go by what the Moco dyno sheets show. I have a 103" all SE parts that was pieced together for the way I ride by the service manager, and my #'s are higher than the SE 110" kit shown in the catalog!

 

Alright Todd.... why you have to beat me to the punch again? I was looking at take offs from a bagger so I could run that style 2 into 1. The Softail stuff will block the oil fill on mine so I figuered I would try one from the big boys. I still can't shake the idea of duals (one on each side like the baggers) with fish tails. May fool with the idea this winter.

 

Todd,

Just make sure to do it right the first time. I knew I should have done my heads when I did my 103. Needless to say my bike is torn down again and my heads have been sent of to Hildreth Performance for some work.

I would do some time researching peoples builds similar to what you want or talking to some of the guys who specialize in builds to make sure you get what you want.

You can count on me for an extra set of hands and tools when you pull the trigger on the build.

 

Wow...I can has OPSEC??

Be safe.

 

WRT comments on the SE heads: sure maybe there are better, but I'm looking at a couple of practical aspects

- about $700 from Zanotti (so cost isn't too bad compared to what you could spend doing it "right")
- the intake and exhaust valves are bigger
- has sturdier valve springs and can accomodate higher lift cams
- fully assembled, so no special tools required or dicking around
- the 76cc combustion chamber will increase the compression ratio which should by itself boost rear wheel HP

I'm sure that several of y'all will point out the inaccuracies and the folly of what I've put out there, but there is method to my madness ...

Would I love to have a monster 150ft-lb/150hp mill like, say, Mudpuddle? Sure, but I'm also looking at cost ...

Not knocking it, but it seems like everyone is after the quick fix of adding cubes not to mention the bragging rights of saying "I've got a 95/103/107/110/113/121/131/ad naseum ..." but I thought that I'd try something that might be as effective ... just following another line of reasoning with my build .... [and as a point of clarification, not saying that those who've gone big bore or stroked it haven't also paid attention to other aspects of the motor!]

For those who've had porting and polishing done (and I assume new bigger valves/valve seats installed) how much did you pay?

Rick - take a look at the Paughco catalog online ... they have the same series (733) head pipe for touring with the aft pipe slanting more to the rear as you're suggesting ... not sure about fitment. I think the only issue you might come up with would be if the space between the rear cylinder and the battery box would provide adequate clearance for the touring style pipe. They've got a 2-into-1 pipe and one just like the '08 and earlier OEM with a crossover dual to the left side of the bike. Also, the direct prices didn't seem too bad compared with some ....

Thanks for the well wishes and ride safe ...

R/
Todd

Note: Disclosing 'UNCLAS' and publicly available information does not ordinarily cause OPSEC concerns ....