Type F is for the earlier ford trannys due to different materials in the seals. I'm thinking that ATF is not the way to go in the primary, it just doesn't have the viscocity to hang in there on that big ole primary chain and sprockets. I think it will be louder and will let things wear much quicker even though the clutch may feel better. The clunk going into gear is the drag of the clutch keeping the shaft turning and causing the clunk as it engages the non turning dogs of the gears. Put your bike in gear before starting and you can get around that first big clunk of the day. jmo though----jack

 

the chain and sprockets in any 4 wheel drive transfer case are bigger than the harleys primarys and they run in atf for hundreds of thousands of miles pulling 10 times the weight. starting in gear first thing in the morning is a sure fire way to get to buy a new 450 dollar starter.

 

Only if they could show that the reason for the problem was the ATF.

Most aftermarket clutch makers specify ATF in the primary when you install their clutches. One (Barnett) actually recommends that Harley Formula+ NOT be used because it is too thick.

I'm using B&M Trick Shift and so far it works great. Like the original poster in this thread said, it completely did away with the big "jump" I used to get when putting the tranny in first gear when cold.

 

Wrong. The distinguishing factor with Type F is that is has no friction modifiers like Dexron, Mercon, etc. Ford's early auto trannys were designed for this fluid, but if you use it in a tranny designed for a friction modified fluid, the shifts are bang-bang quick and harsh. That's why old time drag racers would fill their trannys with Type F to give them a little edge. B&M Trick Shift is a Type F fluid.

In a Harley, you're not likely to feel much if any difference between Type F and Dexron (or any other friction modified fluid). But if you're going to use ATF, Type F would be the way to go, IMO.

 

Here's my take on atf. Thinner oils will transfer heat away faster than thicker oils. This can be from the stator, bearings and even seal lips. Plate separation is way better with atf, and so is hook up. Type F unless you are into racing is a bit aggressive and may reduce the friction zone some. Dextron 3 would be the better choice. There will be no extra wear on the bearings or chain in the primary from it's use. If something craps out, it was nfg to start with. The only negative thing I can see with it is a bit more noise from the primary. This in no way equates to things falling apart in there, but less sound proofing as the thinner oil don't hang around on the surfaces of the covers cushioning sound waves but instead returns to the low point for another splash cycle.
Ron

 

little fellas only 7,but he knows his oil!!!!

 

I'm using the trick shift atf from B&M nice and smooth.

 

Yes but those componants were specifically designed to use the atf by the mfg, seals, bearings, etc. and if harley engineers wanted atf to be used they would have put it in there.I have 88,000 on my 02 wide glide and still have all the original parts other than cam tensioners and "B" lifters and I run the viscocity oils in there that is called for and my starter is doing just fine, but I don't start it in gear when it is 20* outside either. I'm just saying that for joe average rider, don't try to re-invent your scoot, just ride it. Being a mechanic alllll my life and owning my own shop I've found that the folks that take care of their equipment and leave them stock have much more longevity in their equipment than those who tinker with them and do it their own way, just an observation from old time master mechanic ----jack

 

whats the difference in the seals and bearings???maybe gary7 will tell us the difference between atf and formula plus that needs a special bearing and seal.no master mechanic here,just ase master tech certifications in autos and heavy truck for the last 20 yrs.

 

I went with B&M Trick Shift also, it feels a lot better to me. Harley doesn't make oil, they go for the low bid.