Base coat today, clear tomorrow!!
#24
Thanks for the encouragement guys. The clear was interesting. Since the primer and paint went so well I went out with a big head and it wasn't pretty. It really isn't horrible but I have some sags and orange peel. I kept bumping the **** on the regulator (mounted to the gun) and jacking up my pressure. That's not good for the finish. I took the best approach and went to work on the barn. I'm going to smooth out the sags scuff it (hoping to stay out of the base coat) and lay on some more clear this weekend. Tell you what though, even with the botched clear it looks good in the sun. I'll post pics once it no longer looks like an old ladies skin.
Not as much as I figured I would. I wiped it down and went to town on Sunday morning.
I could have went right to the clear but it was late enough that my belly was talking and when I get hungry my patience goes away FAST.
Sounds good to me. Once it's back togetherand I know all the stuff I did is good for the long haul I'm in.
Sounds good to me. Once it's back togetherand I know all the stuff I did is good for the long haul I'm in.
#27
wrap some 1000 wd around little rubber sanding block and make wet sand passes over the run .and go slowly.after a few passes take the rubber block and drag it across the surface to squeegie the water off and you will be able to see the progress. Resist the temptation to push down a lot and let the flat surface of the block ride on the high crown of the hanger.
but if you do go through the clear, and you are going to re-base any pieces, be sure to prime/seal and feather the area that went through or you could get lifting at the edge of the area that went through when you spray the blue . It becomes a freakin' horror show at that point.
Whos Clear are you using ?? ( what Brand ? ) besides activator and maby reducer are you using an accelerator ?
but if you do go through the clear, and you are going to re-base any pieces, be sure to prime/seal and feather the area that went through or you could get lifting at the edge of the area that went through when you spray the blue . It becomes a freakin' horror show at that point.
Whos Clear are you using ?? ( what Brand ? ) besides activator and maby reducer are you using an accelerator ?
Last edited by Tele00; 05-19-2009 at 05:29 AM.
#28
It's Deltron DBC base and DC3000 clear. Not sure about much more than that.
That's why I went to the barn, if I stayed in the garage I would have kept on til it was too far gone. If I give myself time to think I can work through these things.
Thanks for the pointers. I plan on starting on the areas that you won't see once it's assembled. That will give me some practice before I get to the high profile areas. Not using any reducer or accelerator, just the activator.
wrap some 1000 wd around little rubber sanding block and make wet sand passes over the run .and go slowly.after a few passes take the rubber block and drag it across the surface to squeegie the water off and you will be able to see the progress. Resist the temptation to push down a lot and let the flat surface of the block ride on the high crown of the hanger.
but if you do go through the clear, and you are going to re-base any pieces, be sure to prime/seal and feather the area that went through or you could get lifting at the edge of the area that went through when you spray the blue . It becomes a freakin' horror show at that point.
Whos Clear are you using ?? ( what Brand ? ) besides activator and maby reducer are you using an accelerator ?
but if you do go through the clear, and you are going to re-base any pieces, be sure to prime/seal and feather the area that went through or you could get lifting at the edge of the area that went through when you spray the blue . It becomes a freakin' horror show at that point.
Whos Clear are you using ?? ( what Brand ? ) besides activator and maby reducer are you using an accelerator ?
#30