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103 vs 107 vs 110 on Fatbob

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  #11  
Old 05-16-2009 | 11:18 PM
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rockon
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If it were me I'd do the 103...heard almost nothing but bad things about the 110.
 
  #12  
Old 05-17-2009 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by marinepilot81
I looked around but didn't see a thread like this:

I'm going to add some displacement to my 08 Fatbob and wanted a little positive steer. I understand that bigger = more power. The questions I have are:

Cost vs performance gain?
How much of the stock components can I keep?
Will the bottom end need to be done as well?
What all will need to be replaced?
Do the "kits" have everything I need?

It seems that a 107 is about as big as you can go on stock parts from what I've read and it's not that much more expensive than a 103. I'm leaning towards the 107...any ideas?
Hey throttle jockey! How is the dad coming along with the new bike?

I went with the Axtell 107 kit, opt for the Baiesley ProHeads, 10:1.
The kit comes with everything you need and I couldnt be happier.
129hp / 131Tq.
You can check them out at www.axtellsales.com. If you call, talk to Chas. They know thier stuff.
 
  #13  
Old 05-17-2009 | 09:53 AM
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Damn Rider57...that sounds like a fun bike to ride. Would have loved to have a motor like that under my butt yesterday
 
  #14  
Old 05-17-2009 | 10:02 AM
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Awful lot of ways to go. I spent most of my performance $$ on suspension and brakes, but still wanted more oomph.

I added the HD SE103 stage 2 kit, was very reasonable at a local dealer. Gas is kinda crappy in California so I stayed away from higher compression.

I am very pleased with the result (100 lbs torque) but you can always get more.

Once I started thinking about doing more, it seemed like 1) do the heads, then 2) maybe bigger throttle bodies, 3) stronger clutch, 4)$$$. I didn't want to spend over $2k total, and didn't want to try to do any of the work myself.
 
  #15  
Old 05-17-2009 | 10:03 AM
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Hd's 110 means boring the case. If you're going to get into that, why not just keep going? 113/117/121/124..... I'm sure taking a basic 110 and adding the right headwork and cams could get it runnin with the big dogs but to just slap the kit on with hd cams,heads you're not gonna see as good a bump in power than if you pieced it together with complimentary parts.

a basic 103 (jugs,pistons) is $600. A good cam $250+ Headwork to compliment the cams $500+. For about $1500-1700 you can have a rockin bike that won't be unreliable.

Obviously more power = less life expectancy. Many have said a 103 is a nice medium between power and reliability.
 
  #16  
Old 05-17-2009 | 01:00 PM
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It isn't just the cubic inches; it's what goes into the build. Look at the torque curve on this 103 build; 100ft lbs at about 2200rpm makes for a really fun ride.....
 
Attached Thumbnails 103 vs 107 vs 110 on Fatbob-103-dyno-e-mail.jpg  
  #17  
Old 05-17-2009 | 02:03 PM
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What work have you done to it Sharkey?
 
  #18  
Old 05-17-2009 | 07:54 PM
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Hey throttle jockey! How is the dad coming along with the new bike?
Due to some titling errors...it still doesn't have plates on it. Not a lot I can do to fix this from Hawaii.

It seems like the best way to go is to have a powerful 103. The 107 puts you in danger of blowing the crank and that's an expensive mod to make.
 
  #19  
Old 05-18-2009 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BUSCHA
What work have you done to it Sharkey?
HeadQuarters 0033 cams, heads and ignition
CP pistons at 10.5 - 1 comp
SE crank, 51CV, pressure plate and perfect fit pushrods
2" Cycle Shack 2-2 pipes at time of dyno
 
  #20  
Old 05-18-2009 | 12:13 PM
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the 103 is the most bang for your buck, the 110 isn't very good due to having to meet EPA restrictions. They tend to have a lot of heat issues from the high displacement low compression set up. (So I'm told)
 
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