FYI- retrofitting automatic primary chain tensioner
#12
i know the auto tensioner is not the problem.
the motor runs. there is no interference, the problem i believe is the starter clutch not allowing the drive gear to freewheel and when the engine tries to kick, it wipes the (ridiculously fragile) teeth off the pinion and clutch basket. th motor is nowhere near stock... the only stock parts left in it are the cases and oil pump assembly. the cranking compression is actually less than a stocker, due to long duration cam (static ratio is 11.4:1 but it only pumps up 130-ish due to duration of cam). I just find it ridiculous that the "warranty" company would use this excuse not to cover a stock part. yes the primary is too tight, I am not sure why that happened, and am going back to the oe style tensioner. But the starter has been an issue since i before ant engine work was done, and every time they replace the drive gear and basket, and say that everything else is good. I am going to go with a 66 tooth ring gear, and matching pinion, as well as replace the starter clutch. the 66 tooth design was alot more tolerant of misalignment, and so hopefully itll be fixed for good this time.
#13
i pulled it apart, and it runs now.
the starter pinion had 3 teeth broken off, and the ring gear was all chewed up. i went with a 66 tooth setup, as the 102 is just too damn fragile. the auto tensioner had come completely apart (spring was haning out) not sure if it was like that before they pulled it down the first time. replaced the starter clutch while it was apart. the old one was trashed.
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Paul32730
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
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12-15-2007 10:43 PM