Hey all,
Just installed the front of the TT, and went another direction to prevent the engine from slipping back like a lot said theirs did.

I took the stabilizers links off so it was only the plate with the TT branding on it. I removed the lower isolator frame bolt and put the plate on upside down and tightened the new frame isolator bolt enough so that it was well into the isolator itself. Then I removed the top isolator frame bolt, rotated the plate clockwise and installed the new top frame isolator bolt. Reattached all of the stab. links and attached the TT piece to engine isolator bolts.

I was really concerned about the slippage, and I like to think this helped! I still used a jack to keep the engine up just incase, however I used the measly bottle neck from my truck.

On a note of my review, I didnt have a chance to take her for a boot, but the vibrations at idle decreased a fair amount! I was considering the placebo effect, so I had my girlfriend come out and sit on it at idle before the install and after, without telling her what I was doing. She came out post install, and immediately said the vibration in the handle bars and pegs was reduced. And shes about as observant as a gold fish swimming in a crackhead's urine.

So hey, I'm happy thus far, tomorrow is the rear!

 

I have no idea what that means.

Not sure if the instructions said, but I took the links off. Actually I installed the brackets a week ago, and the links themselves just tonight.

The rear wasn't too bad as I already had my exhaust off and I was replacing the motor mounts. The couple things I found were that the rear frame brackets fasteners were too long. I had to grind the fasteners shorter by about .060". And the link's jam nuts hit the frame bracket.

A trick for the brackets that have the bolts thread into them...whichever bolt spins more freely, push it back into the mount so it doesn't protrude and interfere. Have the bolt that's more snug in the mount protruding as far through the mount as possible and start that on into the TT bracket first. Once that one is several good turns in, then carefully tighten the more free fastener into the bracket. A little less chance of cross threading that way.

And when you put the links on, don't have the bike on a jack or the motor supported by a jack. Make sure the turnbuckle is centered in the link. Put one bolt through and eye. Hold the other eye in the proper orientation and extend the link until the other fastener will just drop through and thread in nice easy. You should be able to tighten down the eye fasteners and still be able to turn the turnbuckle relatively easy and find its 'center'. Then tighten the jam nuts. On the rear I had to loosen the eye fasteners to get enough clearance to turn the jam nuts, then re-tighten the eye fasteners.

Good luck.