Vibration through handlebars fixed , on 08 DYNA
#71
Guys,
I TOTALLY killed this issue this weekend by doing a few more things. First, I put 4-1/2" long .75" diameter steel bar end-weights into each handlebar (wrap them in duct tape until you have to press them in by hand). I also installed new iso grips, and I also found out my shift linkage was twisted and grounded out from the factory. After adding a second set of shim washers to the front engine mount, my mirrors are DEAD STILL when going down the road. Unbelievable, huh? Still has the ol' rumble at idle, but hey, that's normal, right? - RK.
I TOTALLY killed this issue this weekend by doing a few more things. First, I put 4-1/2" long .75" diameter steel bar end-weights into each handlebar (wrap them in duct tape until you have to press them in by hand). I also installed new iso grips, and I also found out my shift linkage was twisted and grounded out from the factory. After adding a second set of shim washers to the front engine mount, my mirrors are DEAD STILL when going down the road. Unbelievable, huh? Still has the ol' rumble at idle, but hey, that's normal, right? - RK.
#73
Many many issues can cause a bike to vibrate excessively. Rubber mounted bikes and particularly the Dynas are critical of engine alignment. I've not run into a single case yet where properly aligning the engine did not bring any front motor mount gap into acceptable tolerances. You would be surprised at how a triple tree cover bolted to the handlebar clamp and just barley touching the top tree will translate through the bars and seem like unnacceptable overall vibration. Had a friend that was ready to get rid of his Dyna. He had tried the shimming, bar snakes etc. One Saturday over a few beers, we pulled it into my garage and pulled all the front washers out, aligned the rear wheel and adjusted the belt, then did a complete motor alignment as per the Factory Repair Manual. Went through all the critical fastners with a torque wrench (many were loose). and then ground off the corner of that handlebar clamp cover and realigned his crooked handlebars...Oh did I mention that his riser bushings were also torqued down so tight his bars were like rigid mounted bars...About three hours later that bike was as smooth as a babys bottom....There are proper alignment procedures for a reason. The tolerances between the same bikes are not going to vary as much as some make it seem here. Proper alignment should correct the issues with the gap. Washers are a bandaid in IMHO. Correct alignment won't always correct the vibration and nor will the bandaid washers. Too many contributing factors at Play....primary chain adjustment, covers, loose bolts tighter then spec riser bushings etc etc etc. Proper on going maintenance is the key to a nice running motorcycle.
Last edited by Rickr01; 08-25-2009 at 09:12 AM.
#75
Don't forget, YAMAHA still sells their street bikes..
#76
Further explanation - sorry
What I meant was the turnbuckles on my shift linkage were both fully twisted in opposite directions from new and unable to rotate freely...hope I explained this correctly. Maybe wasn't hurting anything, but defeats the purpose of swivels IMHO.
AND, has anyone ever driven a Yamaha Road Star? They are a pretty nice bike. I'm just glad to be on 2 wheels! - RK.
AND, has anyone ever driven a Yamaha Road Star? They are a pretty nice bike. I'm just glad to be on 2 wheels! - RK.
#77
My vibration was awful. Checked out all the forums and this on made the most sense so I got the part and just for the heck of it before I stated getting all into it I pulled my front tire and put it on the static balancer. I was way out of balance. I had thrown my weights and I needed 2 oz put on. No more vibration!! Yahoooo. But hey you guys really have given me some great info for future use. Thanks
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