Vibration through handlebars fixed , on 08 DYNA
#31
04-11-2009 | 05:27 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,392
Likes: 42
From: South Australia
I was going to shim, but I found you can significantly reduce or eliminate the gap by loosening all the mount bolts.
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
#32
04-11-2009 | 05:52 PM
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 249
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
After installing the TT I am not buying into the washer fix, actually my gap went completely away when I loosened the whole mount. I guess if you still have a gap you could shim it, but if you have to put 3 or 4 washers in there I think there is something wrong or as I posted, you need to relax the rear mount also. Just my thoughts, if it works for you that is great.
CB
CB
So my opinion is that there is manufactures tolerances some where within the frame, engine, or the mounts. Most likely the mounts probably vary or settle differently from new, as some end up with a gap and some see little or no gap.
I would prefer no shims, but I have a gap, and I know when you have something that sees vibration and there is preload built into it, things break. Many here have had the front mount fail which I believe is from being preloaded, where as it is pulling the mount apart.
The two "noticeable" changes that made my bike run smoother were tuning and shimming the front mount.
That's all, I don't think I can add anything else here..........
.
#33
04-11-2009 | 06:04 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 1
From: Upstate, SC
I shimmed mine this morning with two 5/16" washers on each bolt. This has almost completely eliminated the "moan" I was getting from the drive belt after my aborted attempt at installing the True Track. Now it's just a faint whine, which I think will probably go away on its own as the belt loosens with age.
#34
04-11-2009 | 07:50 PM
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA
I shimmed mine this morning with two 5/16" washers on each bolt. This has almost completely eliminated the "moan" I was getting from the drive belt after my aborted attempt at installing the True Track. Now it's just a faint whine, which I think will probably go away on its own as the belt loosens with age.
#35
04-11-2009 | 09:19 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 1
From: Upstate, SC
Gary, are you sure that those washers are each 5/16"? They look like the washers that I used which are about 2.5mm thickness. I used (1) on each bolt. I may add another to each bolt and see if there is any further improvement. There is noticeable improvement with just one of these on each bolt on my '07 Dyna.
Two washers was what I needed to "fill the gap" between the frame and the isolator when the mounting bolts were removed.
#36
04-11-2009 | 10:31 PM
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
I've played with the mounts several times, I did the engine alignment without the shim which includes loosing the bolts to the frame as well as the bolts to the engine (both front and rear mounts), run the engine so that it will shake into a relaxed position then torque the bolts. Then I loosened the front mount bolts and still had a gap. After several thousand miles, I installed the oil cooler and reverified the gap, no change.
So my opinion is that there is manufactures tolerances some where within the frame, engine, or the mounts. Most likely the mounts probably vary or settle differently from new, as some end up with a gap and some see little or no gap.
I would prefer no shims, but I have a gap, and I know when you have something that sees vibration and there is preload built into it, things break. Many here have had the front mount fail which I believe is from being preloaded, where as it is pulling the mount apart.
The two "noticeable" changes that made my bike run smoother were tuning and shimming the front mount.
That's all, I don't think I can add anything else here..........
.
So my opinion is that there is manufactures tolerances some where within the frame, engine, or the mounts. Most likely the mounts probably vary or settle differently from new, as some end up with a gap and some see little or no gap.
I would prefer no shims, but I have a gap, and I know when you have something that sees vibration and there is preload built into it, things break. Many here have had the front mount fail which I believe is from being preloaded, where as it is pulling the mount apart.
The two "noticeable" changes that made my bike run smoother were tuning and shimming the front mount.
That's all, I don't think I can add anything else here..........
.
CB
#37
04-12-2009 | 08:42 PM
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: IN
I tried this today on my 05 Lowrider. Ran into a little hitch. I loosened the bolts, jacked the engine up and had the "gap" , about 3/16". Put a shim in and bolted it back down. Stripped the top bolt. Looks like helicoil time. P.S. I can't believe HD made that mount out of aluminum. The bolts were pretty loose when I loosened them. Maybe vibration heled too.
#38
04-12-2009 | 09:39 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,530
Likes: 1
From: Upstate, SC
I shimmed mine this morning with two 5/16" washers on each bolt. This has almost completely eliminated the "moan" I was getting from the drive belt after my aborted attempt at installing the True Track. Now it's just a faint whine, which I think will probably go away on its own as the belt loosens with age.
#40
04-13-2009 | 07:54 AM
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 346
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, PA