Vibration through handlebars fixed , on 08 DYNA
#21
Well I just loosened mine and the mount didn't pull away enough to put a 1/64 thick washer. So I tightened it back up & torqued. It barely pulled away on the top bolt and the bottom bolt once loose 1/4 turn I could remove with my fingers. The top bolt was tighter and the top of the mount moved away just barely. So, I'm guessing my engine doesn't have much preload on the mount because it looks brand new.
#24
Well I just loosened mine and the mount didn't pull away enough to put a 1/64 thick washer. So I tightened it back up & torqued. It barely pulled away on the top bolt and the bottom bolt once loose 1/4 turn I could remove with my fingers. The top bolt was tighter and the top of the mount moved away just barely. So, I'm guessing my engine doesn't have much preload on the mount because it looks brand new.
A friend has an 08 lowrider and was getting alot of vibration in the footpegs
do you get any of that ??
#25
Only when the engine is cold at 2500 rpm. Once it warms for 20 minutes up not much. I have tuned about 70% of the vibration out with my SERT. My bike really only vibrates at idle and very low rpm. On the highway I can read license plates in the mirrors.
#26
I was going to shim, but I found you can significantly reduce or eliminate the gap by loosening all the mount bolts.
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
#27
I was going to shim, but I found you can significantly reduce or eliminate the gap by loosening all the mount bolts.
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
I Have to Agree here
#28
I was going to shim, but I found you can significantly reduce or eliminate the gap by loosening all the mount bolts.
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
Set the bike straight up, either have someone hold it up straight or jack it up by the frame, if you jack it up by the frame make sure you put your jack as far back as it can go. Put a small jack under the front of the engine to just to support it . Crack loose the the front mount to frame bolts, raise the engine just enough to be able to turn the frame to mount bolts by hand. If there is a gap loosen the mount to engine bolts and the mount should fall forward, mine had less than the thickness of a washer after loosening the bolts. Hand tighten and just snug all the bolts, drop the support for the engine and torque all the bolts 27ft.lbs and you should be good to go. If you have 1/2" gap and filling it with washers, I don't think the engine is positioned correctly? I would do this for the front and rear at the same time. The pic with the stack of washers seems really, really wrong to me.
CB
Why?
Remember this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...il-cooler.html?
Or more specifically, this post from the same thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/4629022-post38.html
A little more info in the below link.
'06 FXDI motor mount (warranty repair)
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ty-repair.html
#29
Well I just loosened mine and the mount didn't pull away enough to put a 1/64 thick washer. So I tightened it back up & torqued. It barely pulled away on the top bolt and the bottom bolt once loose 1/4 turn I could remove with my fingers. The top bolt was tighter and the top of the mount moved away just barely. So, I'm guessing my engine doesn't have much preload on the mount because it looks brand new.
Mike
#30
Why?
Remember this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...il-cooler.html?
Or more specifically, this post from the same thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/4629022-post38.html
A little more info in the below link.
'06 FXDI motor mount (warranty repair)
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ty-repair.html
CB