Which shocks do I buy?
#11
1)Buy shocks that are sprung for your weight and typical load
2)Buy gas shocks that are rebuildable, they will be cheaper in the long run if you keep your bike for an extended period of time, rebuilds are around 120.00 or so and typically are done at 30,000 mi. and you will have essentially brand new shocks again
3) buy shocks with as much adjustability as you can afford, Preload(they all have that)
rebound (how fast it goes up) compression(how fast it goes down) and length(typically + 10mm)
4)If you are buying shocks to improve handling, keep the stock length or more if you want more cornering clearance. If you are lowering, I think it's even more critical to buy as good as you can afford.
Only you can decide what you need, but you don't have to be an aggressive rider to appreciate good shocks, a well tuned, quality suspension set-up(front and back, sorry you'll need to address the stock Showa forks too )will make your bike much less effortless to ride, less tiring and the grin factor goes way up.
I'm not a fan of the stock suspension or the ubiquitous Progressive shocks(neither of which are geared for your weight, both non-rebuildable), that said, many people are quite content with the stock set-up, the problem with a forum you will read about people doing all kinds of things to their bikes, and spending big$$,and you will usually(not always) get the advice that involves big dollar upgrades which you may or not need. Suspension was important to me, I have 320mm YSS Z series 366 TRL, works performance triple rate spring kit and Ricor IAS valves in front, sputhe positrac, and ditched the Dunlops for Metz 880's. Is my bike much more fun to ride, yes, was it worth almost 1800.00, to me it was a bargain, but I could have spent much, much more, top of the line Penske or Ohlins, inverted forks, composite rotors to decrease upsprung weight, aluminum swing arm, etc, etc. You get the idea,upgrades are expensive and not everyone needs them, if you are unhappy with the stock suspension, spend the money, if you are unhappy with the brakes, spend the money, if you are unhappy with the power, spend the money. As much as I love my Dyna, it will take a ****load of money to make it the Dyna of my dreams, will I ever get there, No.
2)Buy gas shocks that are rebuildable, they will be cheaper in the long run if you keep your bike for an extended period of time, rebuilds are around 120.00 or so and typically are done at 30,000 mi. and you will have essentially brand new shocks again
3) buy shocks with as much adjustability as you can afford, Preload(they all have that)
rebound (how fast it goes up) compression(how fast it goes down) and length(typically + 10mm)
4)If you are buying shocks to improve handling, keep the stock length or more if you want more cornering clearance. If you are lowering, I think it's even more critical to buy as good as you can afford.
Only you can decide what you need, but you don't have to be an aggressive rider to appreciate good shocks, a well tuned, quality suspension set-up(front and back, sorry you'll need to address the stock Showa forks too )will make your bike much less effortless to ride, less tiring and the grin factor goes way up.
I'm not a fan of the stock suspension or the ubiquitous Progressive shocks(neither of which are geared for your weight, both non-rebuildable), that said, many people are quite content with the stock set-up, the problem with a forum you will read about people doing all kinds of things to their bikes, and spending big$$,and you will usually(not always) get the advice that involves big dollar upgrades which you may or not need. Suspension was important to me, I have 320mm YSS Z series 366 TRL, works performance triple rate spring kit and Ricor IAS valves in front, sputhe positrac, and ditched the Dunlops for Metz 880's. Is my bike much more fun to ride, yes, was it worth almost 1800.00, to me it was a bargain, but I could have spent much, much more, top of the line Penske or Ohlins, inverted forks, composite rotors to decrease upsprung weight, aluminum swing arm, etc, etc. You get the idea,upgrades are expensive and not everyone needs them, if you are unhappy with the stock suspension, spend the money, if you are unhappy with the brakes, spend the money, if you are unhappy with the power, spend the money. As much as I love my Dyna, it will take a ****load of money to make it the Dyna of my dreams, will I ever get there, No.
#12
#13
This is a good read for anybody looking at buying works p shocks.. http://harleyzone.tenmagazines.com/e...ormance_shocks I had Progressive 412 shocks on my nightster and they made the ride pretty dang good. The stock shocks were really bad on the nighster. Now on my new Fatbob. I think the stock suspension is miles ahead of the nightster with the Progressive 412 shocks & front springs. But if I were to buy shocks again I would buy the Progressive 440 mainly for the adjustably. Hope this helps. My Ducati has ohlins but it's a race bike. ohlins are just to much $$$. You know Harleys are not for racing. We're just out for a cruse.
#14
This is a good read for anybody looking at buying works p shocks.. http://harleyzone.tenmagazines.com/e...ormance_shocks I had Progressive 412 shocks on my nightster and they made the ride pretty dang good. The stock shocks were really bad on the nighster. Now on my new Fatbob. I think the stock suspension is miles ahead of the nightster with the Progressive 412 shocks & front springs. But if I were to buy shocks again I would buy the Progressive 440 mainly for the adjustably. Hope this helps. My Ducati has ohlins but it's a race bike. ohlins are just to much $$$. You know Harleys are not for racing. We're just out for a cruse.
Why does everyone think Ohlins are soooo $$$$$?
Last edited by rounder; 04-07-2009 at 10:45 AM.
#15
Where can you buy Ohlins for less than Progressive? Ohlins type S36E are $600 and the Progressive 412s are $210 both bottom of the line. Im sure the ohlins are a little better but are they 3 times the $$ better ??. Now what about the upper line ? Progressive 440 $500 compared with Ohlins Type S36PR1C1LB $1450. 3 TIMES MORE MONEY.( all prices taken from JCmotors) Like i was just tring to point out we're just out for a cruse. Maybe I should have left off the part about racing my bad I am not tring to say that you are wrong I just dont know where you get your information? I'm just saying.
#16
Where can you buy Ohlins for less than Progressive? Ohlins type S36E are $600 and the Progressive 412s are $210 both bottom of the line. Im sure the ohlins are a little better but are they 3 times the $$ better ??. Now what about the upper line ? Progressive 440 $500 compared with Ohlins Type S36PR1C1LB $1450. 3 TIMES MORE MONEY.( all prices taken from JCmotors) Like i was just tring to point out we're just out for a cruse. Maybe I should have left off the part about racing my bad I am not tring to say that you are wrong I just dont know where you get your information? I'm just saying.
I think I can say I would cruise around on Ohlins that ride like a Lexus over the progressives or stock that rode like an economy car. The Ohlins are way more than 3x better than progressives. I know I have experience with both.
Contact Howard at www.motorcyclemetal.com about a set of Ohlins and pricing.
Oh that link you put up before about the Works warning... That guy is a mental midget. Shocks and springs DO wear out and that is how it goes. Complaining about a restock fee??!! Custom order anything from about anywhere and return it.... Yup.... restock fee!
Last edited by rounder; 04-07-2009 at 10:56 AM.
#17
Where can you buy Ohlins for less than Progressive? Ohlins type S36E are $600 and the Progressive 412s are $210 both bottom of the line. Im sure the ohlins are a little better but are they 3 times the $$ better ??. Now what about the upper line ? Progressive 440 $500 compared with Ohlins Type S36PR1C1LB $1450. 3 TIMES MORE MONEY.( all prices taken from JCmotors) Like i was just tring to point out we're just out for a cruse. Maybe I should have left off the part about racing my bad I am not tring to say that you are wrong I just dont know where you get your information? I'm just saying.
What you are comparing is an entry level Porsche with an entry level Ford Pinto. The entry level Porsche has shock absorbers similar to the Öhlins Technology but not as good and the Ford Pinto has shocks exactly the same designed technology. It is much better to know what you are talking about first. A comparison by price and looking at the bottom line is not any way to start this thread. You should first do your research than make comparisons. Find out what is inside of them first.
You are comparing a non-rebuildable, sealed, hydraulic, Progressive 412 with an Öhlins that has a 36 mm piston (which no other shock including Progressive has). If you wish to compare a POS shock to the same type than compare a 412 to a YSS Bravo ($179.00). $50 cheaper and a better POS ride but still a POS. A Bravo has a chrome body so that should help you decide.
Now let us take the top of the line Progressive and compare it to a Öhlins entry level 36E.
The Progressive 440 does not have any externally adjustable valving adjustments, the same as a Öhlins. The shock body is made of pressed steel. The shock uses the spring for part of its suspension. The valving (the short version) in a 440 consists of reeds (what I.A.S. [Inertia Active System] is) much the same as in a carburetor of a 2 stroke motor. The oil is regulated by the limitation of flow by these plates. The 440 is rebuildable and is gas charged. The MSRP on Chrome shocks is $670 via the internet.
An entry level 36E all have the same advanced piston and shim stack design found on the race bikes winning currently at the track today. The object of winning at the track with shock absorbers is coming in contact with the riding surface the most amount of time. This is where the desirable ride characteristics are the same on the street bike and touring bike are the same. Read: smoother and safer. A 36E is rebuildable and has an adjustable spring preload set of nuts and threaded billet solid body and not pressed steel. An Öhlins, as any of the top shock absorber manufactures, use the spring only to act as a piston locator within the shock body. The spring only holds the bike up with a given load. The piston/valving system is the controlling factor in ride action.
There has been a blind side-by-side comparisons done with a top of the line Progressive 440 (MSRP $670) and the middle of the road YSS Z-366 TRL Twin (MSRP $659). The outcome: there was no comparison. This was done by a high place clergy member who is more of an experienced biker than most here due to his age and experience (hours in the saddle). The 440 provides only marginal advantage over the cheep HD, Chinese made $35 stock shock.
#18
#20
I see that you have a Duck (06 DUCATI 999r, a very nice bike indeed) and you wrote a comparison of a 412 Progressive and an Öhlins . You should and must have known better and that I do not find funny, just sad. The other part is I have provided true comparisons and added to much of the technical information on an intelligent choice in suspension.
You should know better considering your background and exposure to real suspension by owning and riding with your fellow Sport Bike rider friends and acquaintances. I can not believe you never learned anything by this. I must think there must be more to it you are not telling us.
You should know better considering your background and exposure to real suspension by owning and riding with your fellow Sport Bike rider friends and acquaintances. I can not believe you never learned anything by this. I must think there must be more to it you are not telling us.
Last edited by FastHarley; 04-07-2009 at 05:36 PM.