Started to install the rear true track brace and found the case hitting the frame? What do you think, Bad Rear Mount, Front Mount, Both or another issue? Anyone else see this, it is the ding on upper right corner of case. You can also see where it has hit on the frame, can't get a pic of it. The other side has the same ding. If it is the mount I don't want to proceed until I get a mount,but I guess I should pull it out and look at it.

 

I cant' tell exactly what we're looking at there, can you be more specific?

 

I'm gonna guess sag on the rear mount.
What year/model?
How many miles?

 

Sorry, the ding/knick is at the lower right corner, added an arrow.
My front mount really looks trashed. I have 14K on it. 07' Street Bob. I have not heard too many complain of the rear mount going bad? doesn't look like it is rubbing all the time, and it has to travel back quite a bit. Wondering if it may have been done during manufacturing?

 

Ok, I pulled the mount and it looks rock solid, however the bolts that hold it to the case were not torqued. I put a rachet on them and could turn them with no real effort.
Now a different problem, put the mount back in and installed the upper bracket and the brake pressure swith is directly in the way of where the heim joint screws in, WTF! Who has installed one one an 07' Street Bob? What did you do? I should not have to rotate the brake line, it is supposed to fit in the notch to keep it from loosening up. I am pissed!
CB

 

CB,

I too had a clearance issue with the brake switch and the hiem joint. No sweat. Just bend the line just a bit to get the clearance you need. It's not going to hurt a thing. Just rotate the switch until you have what you need.

As to the mount, I'd say it got lowered to far during assy or something, cause that's too sharp of an edge to be rubbing. It would be dark in color from wearing, and more that likely, more smooth or blended looking. That looks like a one shot wonder there.




Mike

 

Did you loosen the line and move it out of the groove? When you say rotate the switch, do mean twist the line, it is not too hard to crack it. Last thing I need is to have to buy a 100.00 brake line. It is more the connectors coming off the switch than the switch its self. They could have easily angled the bracket end more toward the center of the engine to clear the switch. For 360.00 I should not have to bend, twist or rotate anything or have to bleed the brakes.

I think your right on the mount, I'm thinking the same thing.
Thanks
CB

 

Nope, I just twisted the switch out of the way. I don't think I had to move the connector itself more than 1/4" or so. In rotational degrees, that's not much. It'll take ALOT more than that to crack the line. Just make sure you maintain your clearance in the little slot. Otherwise, I'll rub a hole in the line. I've got about a fingernail width on either side at the notch, and about 1/4" clearance at the switch wiring to the TT bracket.





Mike

 

I moved mine out of that notch. No big deal, I don't see why it will be a problem, but I didn't want those wires and that switch pressed against the bracket. There's not much space back there.

Check this picture out. This is exactly how I did mine.

 

on my directions ..i have the positrac...same thing...it says to move the line out of the notch..just loosen the banjo bolt and rotate out of the way.......its no big deal....