True Track Install: Problem Found
#12
04-03-2009, 08:16 AM
Cruiser
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Colorado Sprgs, CO
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That is how I did mine.
#13
04-03-2009, 01:14 PM
I'll tell you, if you have an 08' up the fit will be a piece of cake! The switch is now the banjo bolt that goes directly into the master, it no longer comes off the hose fitting. 
If you want a clean install and a better brake line to boot, order up the 08' line and switch. The brake lines (F+R) on the 08' up are basically a SS line with out the SS braided covering, no more rubber hose.
Line 42142-08 $34.32
switch 72026-08 $6.09
@ Zanotti
Other than the switch being in the way
, I don't see where anyone would have a problem doing the rear mount. I jacked the bike off the ground and used a small scissors jack with a small piece of 2x4 under the trans pan. I loosened all the bolts and the mount just sort of floats around allowing you to easily remove and reposition the bolts, hell the mount just drops right out if you want to inspect it. I would say that if you try to do it with any of the bolts tight it will be difficult. Just install all the bolts loose and then torque them.
I went ahead and moved the brake line.
You also may need to slide the plastic piece that holds the wire harness in the center of the frame up little. The ground leads were in the way of moving the plastic harness holder up so I had to loosen the ground at the engine and rotate the leads out of the way.
Where the engine mount bolts to the frame there are counter bores. I did not like how they just bolted the bracket over these bores with out support behind the bracket, it could suck the bracket down into them when torquing them down so I installed washers in the counter bores flush to the frame so the bracket would tighten down evenly.
CB
If you want a clean install and a better brake line to boot, order up the 08' line and switch. The brake lines (F+R) on the 08' up are basically a SS line with out the SS braided covering, no more rubber hose.
Line 42142-08 $34.32
switch 72026-08 $6.09
@ Zanotti
Other than the switch being in the way
, I don't see where anyone would have a problem doing the rear mount. I jacked the bike off the ground and used a small scissors jack with a small piece of 2x4 under the trans pan. I loosened all the bolts and the mount just sort of floats around allowing you to easily remove and reposition the bolts, hell the mount just drops right out if you want to inspect it. I would say that if you try to do it with any of the bolts tight it will be difficult. Just install all the bolts loose and then torque them.I went ahead and moved the brake line.
You also may need to slide the plastic piece that holds the wire harness in the center of the frame up little. The ground leads were in the way of moving the plastic harness holder up so I had to loosen the ground at the engine and rotate the leads out of the way.
Where the engine mount bolts to the frame there are counter bores. I did not like how they just bolted the bracket over these bores with out support behind the bracket, it could suck the bracket down into them when torquing them down so I installed washers in the counter bores flush to the frame so the bracket would tighten down evenly.
CB
Last edited by NoLongerAmember; 04-03-2009 at 03:15 PM.
#14
04-04-2009, 10:07 AM
Finished the install on the rear of the True Track and took it for a rip. I can not believe the difference in ride quality. The bike feels so much tighter and steering input is so much quicker, even slow parking lot steering is tighter. I took it down one of our roads that has a few tight sweepers and no wallow. Prior to the install I thought that this was just the way this bike handled, like a rubber band and somewhat disappointed. H-D truly missed the boat by not installing 3 links and I only have the 2 on right now, can't wait for my new front mount to arrive so I can complete the install and really give it a test.
CB
Oh, Gary7, I think your wrong on that the front will make the biggest difference.
CB
Oh, Gary7, I think your wrong on that the front will make the biggest difference.
#15
04-04-2009, 10:27 AM
I'll tell you, if you have an 08' up the fit will be a piece of cake! The switch is now the banjo bolt that goes directly into the master, it no longer comes off the hose fitting.
If you want a clean install and a better brake line to boot, order up the 08' line and switch. The brake lines (F+R) on the 08' up are basically a SS line with out the SS braided covering, no more rubber hose.
Line 42142-08 $34.32
switch 72026-08 $6.09
@ Zanotti
Other than the switch being in the way, I don't see where anyone would have a problem doing the rear mount. I jacked the bike off the ground and used a small scissors jack with a small piece of 2x4 under the trans pan. I loosened all the bolts and the mount just sort of floats around allowing you to easily remove and reposition the bolts, hell the mount just drops right out if you want to inspect it. I would say that if you try to do it with any of the bolts tight it will be difficult. Just install all the bolts loose and then torque them.
I went ahead and moved the brake line.
You also may need to slide the plastic piece that holds the wire harness in the center of the frame up little. The ground leads were in the way of moving the plastic harness holder up so I had to loosen the ground at the engine and rotate the leads out of the way.
Where the engine mount bolts to the frame there are counter bores. I did not like how they just bolted the bracket over these bores with out support behind the bracket, it could suck the bracket down into them when torquing them down so I installed washers in the counter bores flush to the frame so the bracket would tighten down evenly.
CB
If you want a clean install and a better brake line to boot, order up the 08' line and switch. The brake lines (F+R) on the 08' up are basically a SS line with out the SS braided covering, no more rubber hose.
Line 42142-08 $34.32
switch 72026-08 $6.09
@ Zanotti
Other than the switch being in the way
, I don't see where anyone would have a problem doing the rear mount. I jacked the bike off the ground and used a small scissors jack with a small piece of 2x4 under the trans pan. I loosened all the bolts and the mount just sort of floats around allowing you to easily remove and reposition the bolts, hell the mount just drops right out if you want to inspect it. I would say that if you try to do it with any of the bolts tight it will be difficult. Just install all the bolts loose and then torque them.I went ahead and moved the brake line.
You also may need to slide the plastic piece that holds the wire harness in the center of the frame up little. The ground leads were in the way of moving the plastic harness holder up so I had to loosen the ground at the engine and rotate the leads out of the way.
Where the engine mount bolts to the frame there are counter bores. I did not like how they just bolted the bracket over these bores with out support behind the bracket, it could suck the bracket down into them when torquing them down so I installed washers in the counter bores flush to the frame so the bracket would tighten down evenly.
CB
#16
04-04-2009, 04:34 PM
#17
04-04-2009, 05:06 PM
Well, the case rubbing the frame threw me for a loop and got me all wound up and then the switch being in the way, what can I say? 
I should have just finished the install instead of bitchin' and then laid out what I found, but it was late and I was rushing it. I wanted to ride it in the early morning so I could I could evaluate it and then install the front brace with the new mount that did not friggin' show up anyway,
I did not bend the line, I went ahead and loosened the brake line and rotated it out of the groove clockwise and next to the bracket as others have done, bled the rear brake and took it for a spin.
One other thing I noticed is it does not track the grooves as much, especially the grooves made by the road crew when they grind the paint lines away, that wiggle you get when you run over them.
With the Ricors and the True Track, the crappy rear shocks really show up!
CB
I should have just finished the install instead of bitchin' and then laid out what I found, but it was late and I was rushing it. I wanted to ride it in the early morning so I could I could evaluate it and then install the front brace with the new mount that did not friggin' show up anyway, I did not bend the line, I went ahead and loosened the brake line and rotated it out of the groove clockwise and next to the bracket as others have done, bled the rear brake and took it for a spin.
One other thing I noticed is it does not track the grooves as much, especially the grooves made by the road crew when they grind the paint lines away, that wiggle you get when you run over them.
With the Ricors and the True Track, the crappy rear shocks really show up!
CB
#18
04-04-2009, 07:14 PM
Road Captain
#19
04-04-2009, 07:46 PM
Well, the case rubbing the frame threw me for a loop and got me all wound up and then the switch being in the way, what can I say? I should have just finished the install instead of bitchin' and then laid out what I found, but it was late and I was rushing it. I wanted to ride it in the early morning so I could I could evaluate it and then install the front brace with the new mount that did not friggin' show up anyway,
I did not bend the line, I went ahead and loosened the brake line and rotated it out of the groove clockwise and next to the bracket as others have done, bled the rear brake and took it for a spin.
One other thing I noticed is it does not track the grooves as much, especially the grooves made by the road crew when they grind the paint lines away, that wiggle you get when you run over them.
With the Ricors and the True Track, the crappy rear shocks really show up!
CB
I should have just finished the install instead of bitchin' and then laid out what I found, but it was late and I was rushing it. I wanted to ride it in the early morning so I could I could evaluate it and then install the front brace with the new mount that did not friggin' show up anyway, I did not bend the line, I went ahead and loosened the brake line and rotated it out of the groove clockwise and next to the bracket as others have done, bled the rear brake and took it for a spin.
One other thing I noticed is it does not track the grooves as much, especially the grooves made by the road crew when they grind the paint lines away, that wiggle you get when you run over them.
With the Ricors and the True Track, the crappy rear shocks really show up!
CB
#20
04-04-2009, 08:37 PM
I did not thin much more about it, might try putting some touch up paint on it and see if it knocks off the paint?
CB
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