Shifter Shaft Forward Control Removal
#11
03-09-2009 | 01:44 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,465
Likes: 14
From: Corona, Ca
#12
03-10-2009 | 04:32 AM
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Central New Jersey
#15
03-10-2009 | 07:37 AM
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 249
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Here's some info below on removing the original shift shaft lever.
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/advanced_search.php
https://shop.zanottimotor.com/
Photos below of the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A)
with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions says you have to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A) with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06) that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level angle, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
(You may have to change the rear transmission shift lever only if your using the 2006 and up kit and have a hard time finding neutral. This is caused by a longer front shift lever on the 2006 and up kits which in turn will take less movement of your foot to change gears or go into neutral.)
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/advanced_search.php
https://shop.zanottimotor.com/
Photos below of the 2005 and earlier kit (P/N 49080-03A)
with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)
Last edited by WS6 Formula; 01-11-2012 at 08:03 PM.
#16
03-10-2009 | 07:59 PM
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 426
Likes: 0
You really don't need to do either. Just leave it in place and remove it if and when you need to service that area of the bike. If you push it in and then wedge the armiture part of it behind one of the engine bolt heads (You'll see which one when you try it) the shaft is flush with the outer primary and it does not move. I did this with mine 8K miles ago and not once has it vibrated loose.
I had been holding off on swapping my mids to forwards because I didn't feel like doing all the work that the instructions said to. I'm capable, just lazy....I also didn't like the idea of hacking the old shift shaft.
This idea works great and is super easy, plus I can switch back to mids real easily if I ever decide to for whatever reason.
I have the new blacked out HD forwards. For some reason, it seems that the left side is closer to the bike than the right side.....maybe it's just me.....anyway, I used longer bolts and a bunch of washers to shim it out about an inch. Now it feels perfect.
Anyone else experience that?
#17
03-20-2009 | 07:07 PM
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 409
Likes: 1
From: Norwalk, Ohio
Just to bump this for anyone wanting an easy way to install forwards on a Dyna without the BS of cracking the tranny open, this method works PERFECT.
I love the short throws the original shift shaft gives you. MUCH more comfortable now that I can put my legs out finally. And I no longer hit my shins when I try to walk the bike around.
Highly recommend this method, should take less then 2 hours with basic mechanical skills.
I love the short throws the original shift shaft gives you. MUCH more comfortable now that I can put my legs out finally. And I no longer hit my shins when I try to walk the bike around.
Highly recommend this method, should take less then 2 hours with basic mechanical skills.
#19
03-23-2009 | 05:59 PM
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 249
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
You would have to change the front lever, using one from the 05 and earlier kit, or drill another mounting hole (lower on the front shift lever) that the shift rod connectors to.
#20
03-24-2009 | 03:29 AM
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 449
Likes: 1
From: Ventura, CA (So Cal)
A tip for a clean look if you want to leave the shaft in. I just dabbed a little elmers glue on the shaft and pushed it in and rotated the arm towards the engine so it was out of the way, and the shaft will go in far enough to sit flush with the primary.