A impact driver set will do the trick. Here's the one from Sears. Harbor Freight probably has one too. That's what I had to use on mine. After I started using it, I broke the one original bit, then twisted a second, but it finished the job. Oh, make sure you don't get the safety bits with the little hole in the end either.




Mike

 

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Fupl, smack em first with an impact driver

big ball peen

don't get overly violent,
just give em a good hard whack

the Heavy Duty Snap On bits will eliminate that lifetime of exchanging

mud...............
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Did you try turning the fastener to the left???? Sorry...someone had to say it.

 

Are you sure it was the right size?
I looked all over my sears and couldnt find a T27 except in a big set, wound up getting a different brand, ground the tip flat cause it was a bit round for some reason.

Used a steel hammer smacked it good into each one and no issues, replaced with allens..

 

ahhh... over and over
they are loc tited on, you need to break that, i use punch in the center of the bolt, pop it one time to stretch the thread, then it will come right out!

 

I did some research online before I went to Home Depot to purchase a Husky impact driver. I couldn't find it on the shelf so I approached a salesperson - he had never heard of an impact driver and said they don't carry them. He asked another salesperson who agreed that they don't carry them.

I walked back over to the tools section to take one last look and there it was, right next to the Husky sockets. I walked over to the two salespeople and politely showed them what an impact driver looks like.

BigLow

 

Isn't that the truth. Shortly after I found/joined this site, there was a post where a guy said he replaced his derby cover and used red loctite on the screws. I told him to set up a video camera and film himself when he tries to remove it...

 

I was talking to a guy in the dealership one day who overheard me talking about doing my 1000 mile service myself. I'd said that the bolts in the derby cover (or was it primary cover...or is that the same thing?) came right out without a problem. This guy said he played hell getting them out of his bike (it was an 80's something bike IIRR, mine's an '09). Anyway, he finds out later that on his bike only 3 of the 5 bolts are 'true' bolts, with actual threads and doing anything. The other two are 'dummy' bolts just for looks (we guessed). On my '09, all 5 bolts are real and doing something, but maybe a couple of yours on your bike are those 'fake' ones? At least it's worth thinkin' about.

 

Consider using Antisieze during reassembly. Especially since you'll be back in there for lube changes often enough.

My generalized rule (uh oh... there he goes ) regarding metal threads on the bike: If it is inexpensive AND won't hurt me by coming loose AND is something I take apart with any regularity, then I use Antisieze; most everything else gets Loc-tite. Elements which are bound by rubber or plastic I leave dry.

For example: derby & inspection covers get the grease; handlebar clamp & risers get the glue; enrichener & knurled seat bolt get nothing.

Of course, there are sensible exceptions: pipe threads get Teflon; spark plugs & exhaust fasteners get Antisieze... and so on.