7500 Mile Service? Necessary?
#1
11-30-2008, 12:44 PM
7500 Mile Service? Necessary?
Within the last 12 months (bought the bike 10/07) , I have had the 1000 mi. and 5000 mi. service done by Harley. I also had them do a fluid change at 3000 miles (I had the bike in for a dyno and figured I'd change the fluids too). I do not ride my bike hard. I do alot of cruising on the beach while enjoying a cigar.
QUESTION: Even though not recommended in the manual, is a 7500 mile oil change necessary or is my dealer looking to get in my wallet once again? I could sure use the saved money for tires soon (and Christmas)!
I plan on having the dealer do my 10K in the future.
Oh, and thanks in advance for anyone who tells me to change my own oil... but my question is "is an oil change necessary at 7500 mi.?"
QUESTION: Even though not recommended in the manual, is a 7500 mile oil change necessary or is my dealer looking to get in my wallet once again? I could sure use the saved money for tires soon (and Christmas)!
I plan on having the dealer do my 10K in the future.
Oh, and thanks in advance for anyone who tells me to change my own oil... but my question is "is an oil change necessary at 7500 mi.?"
#2
11-30-2008, 12:51 PM
#3
11-30-2008, 02:35 PM
There's a "Winter Lubrication" section just before the service interval chart in the 2007 Dyna Service Manual. Here's how it reads:
Now I doubt if you're dealing with the freezing temps aspect of this quote seeing as you're in Florida, but it sounds like you take shorter cruises more often than bigger rides.
Mudpuddle once posted some data on how long it actually takes for an engine to warm up. I believe his chart showed ambient temperatures of mid-80's in Texas weather. I was surprised that it took as long as it did for his engine to come to full operating temperature. This was all posted in a thread about warming up one's bike before riding.
Maybe you're dealer knows your riding style and is suggesting the more frequent oil changes for that reason. Of course they could just want your money.
Combustion in an engine produces water vapor. During starting and warm-up in cold weather, especially in freezing temperatures, the vapor condenses to water before the crankcase is hot enough to exhaust it through the breather system. If the engine is run long enough for the crankcase to become thoroughly heated, the water returns to vapor and is then exhausted.
An engine used for only short trips, and seldom allowed to thoroughly warm up, accumulates increasing amounts of water in the oil pan. Water mixed with oil forms a sludge that causes accelerated engine wear. In freezing temperatures, the water becomes slush or ice, which may clog oil lines and result in engine failure.
Always change the engine oil more often in winter. If the engine is used for short runs, change the oil even more frequently. The farther below freezing the temperature drops the more often the oil should be changed.
An engine used for only short trips, and seldom allowed to thoroughly warm up, accumulates increasing amounts of water in the oil pan. Water mixed with oil forms a sludge that causes accelerated engine wear. In freezing temperatures, the water becomes slush or ice, which may clog oil lines and result in engine failure.
Always change the engine oil more often in winter. If the engine is used for short runs, change the oil even more frequently. The farther below freezing the temperature drops the more often the oil should be changed.
Mudpuddle once posted some data on how long it actually takes for an engine to warm up. I believe his chart showed ambient temperatures of mid-80's in Texas weather. I was surprised that it took as long as it did for his engine to come to full operating temperature. This was all posted in a thread about warming up one's bike before riding.
Maybe you're dealer knows your riding style and is suggesting the more frequent oil changes for that reason. Of course they could just want your money.
#4
11-30-2008, 02:37 PM
I think of it this way, in my 1969 GMC P/U 307, solids, Crane Cam, Quadrajet and 700 R4 I change my oil at 3000 miles. 8cylinders and 4000 lbs. Rarely pushed to any limit. 883 Sporty and 88CID Twin cam Pushed often. I change oil at no more than 2500 but more likely at 1500. Stupid? Maybe, but it gives me piece of mind. Advice, follow the manual. Can't hurt
#5
11-30-2008, 03:51 PM
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11-30-2008, 03:52 PM
#7
11-30-2008, 04:19 PM
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I won't do a 7,500 mile check up at the dealer. They will probably do my 10,000. If synthetic oil won't last 5,000 miles, then something is wrong and they are hosing me!!! 
All of my liquids were changed at 1,200 miles at that first checkup. If I go until 5,500 miles or there abouts...........that is only 4,500 miles at the most until I get to 10,000. I sure as hell am not going to change out synthetic oil after 3,000 miles. 
Bucketass has a schedule i can live with.
All of my liquids were changed at 1,200 miles at that first checkup. If I go until 5,500 miles or there abouts...........that is only 4,500 miles at the most until I get to 10,000. I sure as hell am not going to change out synthetic oil after 3,000 miles. Bucketass has a schedule i can live with.
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#8
11-30-2008, 06:51 PM
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#9
11-30-2008, 06:56 PM
#10
11-30-2008, 07:21 PM
I am a big on frequent oil changes. I have always changed mine more often on my Motorcycles and atvs than is suggested.
I did mine at 1k, 3k, and 6k and will probally stay at 3k fluid changes. Might be more than is nessesary but thats fine with me.
Now Im am also big on doing it myself so cost is under $45 for a fluid change and is a 20 minute job.
I did mine at 1k, 3k, and 6k and will probally stay at 3k fluid changes. Might be more than is nessesary but thats fine with me.
Now Im am also big on doing it myself so cost is under $45 for a fluid change and is a 20 minute job.
Last edited by bberck; 11-30-2008 at 08:24 PM.