02 bungs and 05 pipes for a 06 Street Bob
#13
RE: 02 bungs and 05 pipes for a 06 Street Bob
i have no problems with the pclll with the vance and hines bigshot staggs.no popping or sputtering.great throttle response.i recommend it.and my guy that dyno,s at the dealer,has the pclll on his 06 wide glide and v&h bigshots staggs.so why would the dyno guy at the dealer have a pclll if he can sert his bike for free.he recommended me to the pclll.just the things that make u say hmmmmmmm
#15
RE: 02 bungs and 05 pipes for a 06 Street Bob
Does anyone know when anyone will be getting the 06' version of the V&H big shots staggered in stock??? I think I would rather get the pipes with the O2 sensor bungs built in. Well... just figured id check cuz I would hate to be driving this thing around the way it sounds stock. Thanks
Rick
Rick
#17
#18
RE: 02 bungs and 05 pipes for a 06 Street Bob
>> How would the o2 sensors help me if I have a good map, and screamin eagle a/c (minus outer football) left open with a K&N, and maybe some Big Radius? <<
A good tuner can set the EFI map to be perfect. Meaning the AFR is exactly where you want it to be at all rpm's ranges and loads. But it takes a lot of time to do that. Lots and lots of dyno time. And he also has to be able to change the weather and air pressure inside the dyno cell.
The map looks a lot like a spread sheet - RPM down the side, throttle position across the top. But there's another spread sheet for a slightly heavier load, based on vacume. Probably another 6-8 maps for decreasing vacume/load levels. And there's another set to use when the air temps start dropping. The tuner can't possibly set each cell in every map absolutly correctly. It takes way too much time. So you do a few basic maps and extrapolate the rest.
If you add a set of O2 sensors, the computer will read the exhaust and adjust the fuel mixture to keep the ratio exactly where it needs to be in all the maps. It becomes much more precise in every condition. More power, smoother operation, and better efficiency. It adds a level of accuracy that a human being just can't do. With most narrow band (factory) sytems, it eliminates the sensor input at WOT. There, it needs to be richer and the stock sensor can't read it correctly.
Here's a copy of my dyno sheet. Notice how flat the A:F graph is. It's programmed to be slightly lean at 2500-3200 rpm's, so it will get slightly better fuel mileage at the normal cruising ranges. It also eliminates the common "pipe dip" that you usually see. With the O2 sensors, this A:F curve will be present under most conditions.
I think it drops off a little too soon, but otherwise an excellent tune. Note: dyno test done at 6,400' ASL.
[IMG]local://upfiles/6263/A51A908917684363999E94DE6D91E7B9.jpg[/IMG]
A good tuner can set the EFI map to be perfect. Meaning the AFR is exactly where you want it to be at all rpm's ranges and loads. But it takes a lot of time to do that. Lots and lots of dyno time. And he also has to be able to change the weather and air pressure inside the dyno cell.
The map looks a lot like a spread sheet - RPM down the side, throttle position across the top. But there's another spread sheet for a slightly heavier load, based on vacume. Probably another 6-8 maps for decreasing vacume/load levels. And there's another set to use when the air temps start dropping. The tuner can't possibly set each cell in every map absolutly correctly. It takes way too much time. So you do a few basic maps and extrapolate the rest.
If you add a set of O2 sensors, the computer will read the exhaust and adjust the fuel mixture to keep the ratio exactly where it needs to be in all the maps. It becomes much more precise in every condition. More power, smoother operation, and better efficiency. It adds a level of accuracy that a human being just can't do. With most narrow band (factory) sytems, it eliminates the sensor input at WOT. There, it needs to be richer and the stock sensor can't read it correctly.
Here's a copy of my dyno sheet. Notice how flat the A:F graph is. It's programmed to be slightly lean at 2500-3200 rpm's, so it will get slightly better fuel mileage at the normal cruising ranges. It also eliminates the common "pipe dip" that you usually see. With the O2 sensors, this A:F curve will be present under most conditions.
I think it drops off a little too soon, but otherwise an excellent tune. Note: dyno test done at 6,400' ASL.
[IMG]local://upfiles/6263/A51A908917684363999E94DE6D91E7B9.jpg[/IMG]
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