I just got a 1997 Dyna Wide Glide. I filled it up with 89 octane one day, took it for a ride on the high way the next day and it died on my going 65. So I pulled over and check everything thinking maybe I forgot to change the fuel valve to on, but it was on. So I start the bike up drive a little more at about 40 and the bike ran fine. So I give it some more gas and got up to about 65 again and it died just like the first time. It will backfire or hiccup before it dies. Does anyone know why it would be doing this?

Thanks
Sean

 

Clogged fuel filter..maybe

 

But if it was clogged wouldn't that stop the bike from starting? After the bike dies it takes a little bit for it to start but it always does. And why would it only get clogged when going high way speeds?

 

Not if it were partial blockage and as the demand goes up, it can't fill the fuel bowl fast enough. Had the right handlebar conrol off lately? If so, could have pinched the run/stop wire. of course this switch could even go bad but, not saying the last post could be wrong, since it came on so suddenly, I would check the spark plugs for fouling (low octane or bad gas causes very sooty plugs over time and they're "sensitive") I left my enrichener on one time and the bike kept dying. Then, in order, check plug cables for resistance and connection (coil plug-ins could have broken off in coil), battery condition and connections (partially loose: could let bike start but not keep it running with vibration), and finally, the ignition module. The checks for this are as follows:

With multimeter, perform the following tests=
*If “engine cranks but does not start”, check module connection under crankcase and perform test #7: LED Flash. Check ignition coil connections, blk/w and pink wires.
** KEY ON= NOT RUNNING unless indicated ( )'s=expected values

1. BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH KEY ON___________VDC ("LOADED" BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DVOM LEADS TO BATTERY TERMINALS RECORD VALUE

2. POWER TO COIL________VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
REMOVE W/BLK WIRE TO RIGHT-SIDE OF COIL RED LEAD TO W/BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND KEY ON RECORD VALUE

3. POWER FROM COIL_______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
RED LEAD TO PINK WIRE TO LEFT-SIDE OF COIL BLK LEAD TO GROUND KEY ON RECORD VALUE

4. FLASH TEST: SPARK? YES NO
UNPLUG A SPARK WIRES AND USING AN OLD PLUG INSERTED INTO #1 CYL PLUG WIRE, TURN OVER ENGINE WHILE HOLDING TIP ABOUT A 3/16-1/4" GAP FROM CYLINDER HEAD. TURN OVER ENGINE. CHECK FOR SPARK. ALTERNATIVE METHOD IS USING COIL TESTER: BLK ALIGATOR TO PINK COIL WIRE O/W ALLIGATOR TO GROUND TOUCH ORANGE PROBE TO BLACK ALLIGATOR KEY ON OBSERVE SPARK {construction listed in service manual chapter 8}

5. POWER TO MODULE______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DISCONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE UNDER CRANKCASE REMOVE FEMALE-SIDE CONNECTOR ORANGE RETAINER RED LEAD TO W/BLK FEMALE WIRE-CONNECTOR BLK LEAD TO GROUND KEY ON RECORD VALUE

6. MODULE GROUND_______OHMS (CONTINUITY)
RED LEAD TO BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

7. LED FLASH TEST: FLASHING? YES NO
RE-CONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE WITH BIKE RUNNING, OBSERVE RED LED FLASHING ON MODULE FLASHING=GOOD, NO FLASH=BAD

If the above tests show good, check for fuel delivery problems.

 

great advice!!!! you always want to check 3 things right away, fuel, detination, electrical...
also make sure that your terminals are tight... sounds like a short to me

 

by the way use 91/93 octane not 89...

 

I'm thinking fuel delivery problem also. After making sure your not clogged, check the float in your bowl and make sure that's not sticking.

 

Is it backfiring out the intake or exhaust?

I just went through this on my bike. Long story short, the ignition stator wire, on the cam cone, had a loose wire in the heat shrink, where it connects to the harness.. It would come and go, spit, sputter, backfire, run great, then do it all again.... Finally, it left me stranded and wouldnt start... You can do a "stretch test" of the wires. If the wire stretches, the copper core is broken..

 

How was the bike running before you got the gas? If it was running okay then you might want to pull the float bowl and check for water or debris and drain some fuel from the tank looking for contaminants.

 

LOL Thanks JR but not to be the "school marm", but it's fuel, ignition/electrical, mechanical. I always use a "like" service manual and the "cut & paste" is my notes from school I refer to also. I'm old and my memory sometimes isn't so good! Probably just battery or coil conns or really bad gas... it's usu. something simple like that on the "older" bikes without all the electrical wizardry of the new bikes. Have a filter for my '97 FLSTC but haven't felt like changing it out yet and I have 85K on it! Guess, I'll be posting for help soon LOL. Forgot to mention to check for two-digit trouble codes on the speedo (same procedure as WOW test on EFI bikes): got "learned" to those by someone else on another thread when I didn't even know '97-up had this feature!