have you looked at the wiring going to the taillight from the rear turn signals..?

 

Visually inspected them, then check resistance, then unhooked the harness under the seat. Fuse still blew.

 

John, did you just disconnect the rears, or the front too?
If just the rear, you've eliminated that as a problem. disconnect the front and see if it blows again. If so, then your problem is going to be between the TSSM and the connectors.

This is where I mentioned crushed insulators. They do funny things, like introducing capacitance and resistance (almost non-existent to a meter) to a wire that shouldnt have any. Granted, most people think about AC when youre speaking capacitance, but it gives a funny path to ground in DC.

Since you've already eliminated the expensive stuff, its time to chase wires. This is going to be tedious and nerve wracking.

 

I have another question for you
When you put the apes on, did you run the wire through the bars, and did you use a wiring extender, or extend the wires yourself?
Long question and a lot of facets, but I didnt think of it till I looked at your sig pic

 

I disconnected the front signals to check them with the ohm meter and visually inspect them. I did not have them disconnected when I test rode the bike. I will try that next.

I found a place inside the recess in the TSM that looked like it had gotten water in it then dried. There was light corrosion on three of the terminals. I have cleaned the terminals and applied di-electric grease. I don't know if this could have caused an issue with the TAM which contributes to the problem.

I have rigged a 15 Amp circuit breaker to replace the accessory fuse. I am hoping I will recognize some consistencies as to what condition makes it trip.

I did internally wire my new bars. I used a set of switches and wiring from an FXDB. The FXDB wiring was plenty long for the new bars.

 

I could be wrong, but I dont think your problems are going to be in the signals. I'm thinking more in the harness.

Heres something else to ponder. Just for fun, pull the console and check the condition of the wires from your ign switch down to the original connector you tapped into. Since this whole mess seems to happen during the time frame of signal cancellation after a turn, I wonder if centrifugal force isnt playing games with the wires.... If it happened turning one way and not the other, I'd be looking specifically at the neck harnesses

 

Do the signals cancel because of the lean of the bike, is do they cancel solely on the signal received from the Vehicle Speed Sensor?

 

you havent squashed a wire with your seat? or aftermarket bits?

For a problem not to be easily replicated, does it only happen when you sit on the bike etc... when you riding? when your stopped? What lights are working when the fuse blows? what circuits do you lose when this fuse blows? has this bike got an immobiliser thats hooked to your indicator circuit?

Many Many things it Could be.

Sumo
P.S. i work as an auto electrician, i get this sort of stuff all the time

 

I dont have details on that, but mine only works correctly after a lean. From what I can tell, the speed sensor kicks in after a period of time if a lean wasnt detected (and that doesnt always work right).Maybe someone can pop in and set me straight. I'm only going on observations.

 

Stick around Sumo. John might be picking your brain on this