that happened to my friend man

 

Just so you know, chromed bolts suck in any high stress area. They suffer from a condition called hydrogen embrittlement. Basically they have no elastisity and will fracture without any prior indications. The higher the grade of bolt or fastener, the worse it is. If the supplier failed to properly bake the fasteners, it will be substandard. Even baked it won't come up to the mechanical properties of a plain fastener. Zinc and cad plated suffer from embrittlement but to a lesser degree and usually won't give any problems.
Ron

 

sometimes it just pays to just sit and stare at yer bike.

 

hmmmmmm??? 20 k, LOTsa burnouts, and hole shots, chrome pulley cover on, bolts still tight not broken , they are originals, not chrome, and used blue threadlocker and a electric impact, then torques as speced'

 

O.K. guys I'm spooked now. Can anyone send a picture showing what needs to be checked on a 2000 superglide. Thanks for this limb and body saving scare.

 

not sure if anyone mentioned this yet or not but I read an article in the Horse a while back about this....the guy ended up wiring the bolts in place....quite a detailed "how to"....I'll have a look and see if I can find the issue.

 

Posted this on another HDForum with same issue but could be the reason if your swapping wheels that won’t fit original Rear Sprocket Isolator as most rides may have started with it - Not sure what IDS stands for but Rear Sprocket Isolator may also be referred to as Cush Drive, Rotor/Rear Wheel Torque Dampner or as most folks call it on HDForum, IDS. Just thought to add. Here’s a good vid to check out:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rqz5TDVtG1g

 

Close to a record, I think...