Dealer told me I had&nbsp\\;a bubble in the rear brake line.&nbsp\\; Can someone give me simple instructions on how to bleed em?&nbsp\\; It can't be that hard, can it?&nbsp\\; Thanks.&nbsp\\; By the way, deals gap rocksdo the dragon

 

put some clear hose on the fitting.
with 3/8ths, 6 point wrench open, squeeze brake, close
repeat until no bubbles. Add more fluid to the resevoir if it starts to get low, fill it up when you are finished.

The problem is if the clear hose doesn't seal tightly on the fitting, you could be sucking air bubbles in from there, thinking you still have air in there.
Many swear by the pressurized systems, or Mighty Vac, or similar stuff, and fill it through the bleed screw.
I had great luck with the Speed Bleeders. They have a check valve so fluid/air only flows one way

 

Oh, and be careful, the bleed screws are a soft metal (so they seal well) and will strip/round out very easily.

 

a cheap vacuum pump with the extra fluid jar from Harbor freight works great.&nbsp\\; put the hose from the pump to the bleeder screw and open the screw.&nbsp\\; keep pumping the pump until you get no bubbles.&nbsp\\; gotta make sure the resivour (I hate that word) stays full.&nbsp\\; once you get no bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw and remove the hose.
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Speedbleeder.com&nbsp\\; $7.00&nbsp\\; works great

 

auto zone has a real cheap gravity bleeder i use... it is great! small tubes as well perfect for a bike!

 

I bought the one way check valve from Rocky Mountain for my CRF and you don't need to loosen and tighten, just keep pumping the brakes and filling the master cylinder. A vacuum pump works great to especially if you need to replace burnt up fluid.