rear wheel removal
#1
#3
#5
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i put a little mark across the end of the axle and the swingarm on both sides before taking the wheel off so when i put it back on i knew ~where it was supposed to go back, still took some adjustments to get a bit of belt squeak out.
i had to release tension on the adjuster screws to get the belt loose enough to go over the pulley
i had to release tension on the adjuster screws to get the belt loose enough to go over the pulley
#6
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ORIGINAL: JRK5892
nope you do not have to remove the brake pads... you can just just pull out the rear axel (it will require some convincing) DO NOT ADJUST OR MESS WITH THE REAR SCREWS that is used to align your wheel... just unbolt pull that axel and remove the tire
nope you do not have to remove the brake pads... you can just just pull out the rear axel (it will require some convincing) DO NOT ADJUST OR MESS WITH THE REAR SCREWS that is used to align your wheel... just unbolt pull that axel and remove the tire
One last tip - if you have a bike with rear passenger pegs, either remove the right side peg mount of remove your mufflers/pipes, because when you drop the shock bolts and the swing arm, the mount may come into contact with your pipes and do some damage. I don't remember the manual mentioning this but I'm glad someone warned me before I did it.
#7
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Novice at rear wheel removal, but I would assume you are going to have to adjust the belt deflection when you do this. Does this require a gauge?. Also seem like even if you don't touch the wheel adjuster,s you may have to adjust the alignment based on the wheel you are installing?
Thanks. I need to do this to install rear passenger pegs on a Street Bob debating on whether I can do it or should go to the shop.
Thanks. I need to do this to install rear passenger pegs on a Street Bob debating on whether I can do it or should go to the shop.
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#8
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ORIGINAL: wiegs
So you do not need to remove/disconnect the caliper. Isn't the caliper on the axle?
So you do not need to remove/disconnect the caliper. Isn't the caliper on the axle?
#9
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No belt adjusting required. There was a thread here with pics.
[ol][*]Lift the bike[*]Loosen shock top bolts[*]Remove shock bottom bolts[*]Remove top belt guard[*]Remove the circlip from the axle[*]Remove the axle bolt - Slide axle out of swingarm[*]Lift rear brake caliper out of the way[*]Roll the wheel forward to slid belt from the pulley[*]Collect the axle spacers
[/ol]Reverse the process to reinstall. It really is simple. You've done the most important part in getting a service manual. It's kinda cool doing your own work.
[ol][*]Lift the bike[*]Loosen shock top bolts[*]Remove shock bottom bolts[*]Remove top belt guard[*]Remove the circlip from the axle[*]Remove the axle bolt - Slide axle out of swingarm[*]Lift rear brake caliper out of the way[*]Roll the wheel forward to slid belt from the pulley[*]Collect the axle spacers
[/ol]Reverse the process to reinstall. It really is simple. You've done the most important part in getting a service manual. It's kinda cool doing your own work.
#10
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I disconnected the hose from the caliper, and just pulledthe caliperoff when I pulled the axle out... made for having to bleed the brakes, but i didn't want to wrestle the tire past the caliper....I suppose if you deflate it though, you won't need to pull it off
and as far as adjustments go (alignment and belt deflection)...you shouldn't have to...but if you do, yes, you should use the deflection tool and take care of how far you rotate each of your adjustment screws (i put a black dot at 6pm on each of them and made a 90 degree measurement thingy for distance)...I had to adjust mine when I lowered my rear end with 440s...plus, the belt had stretched a bit so I needed to take up some slack...it was squeeking, wicked
post pics when you're done
Oh, and like someone else posted... don't go depressing brake levers or pedals when the wheels are off... otherwise, you'll find yourself rebuilding calipers or replacing them
and as far as adjustments go (alignment and belt deflection)...you shouldn't have to...but if you do, yes, you should use the deflection tool and take care of how far you rotate each of your adjustment screws (i put a black dot at 6pm on each of them and made a 90 degree measurement thingy for distance)...I had to adjust mine when I lowered my rear end with 440s...plus, the belt had stretched a bit so I needed to take up some slack...it was squeeking, wicked
post pics when you're done
Oh, and like someone else posted... don't go depressing brake levers or pedals when the wheels are off... otherwise, you'll find yourself rebuilding calipers or replacing them