I bought washer 45727-08 mentioned in service bulletin M-1215. My question is,do you replace the existing washer with the new one? Reason I ask is that the new washer doesn't have the tab necessary to lock the steering stem nut in place,it's just a flat washer. Anyone do this fix themself?

 

Yes, you replace the washer with tab with the new washer. There is no tab on new washer because you dont bend it to secure the nut, just put some blue loctite on it and torque it to 75 lbs. Problem solved.

 

Figured as much but it never hurts to ask. The clunk is driving me nuts;it makes the bike feel cheap.

Thanks.

 

Have you had you gas tank off? The clunk I had was the front of the gas tank slightly moving when I hit a pot hole, speed bump, etc. When the tank was replaced, the tech swaped the front and rear mounting bolts. The rear bolt is slightly longer and when installed on the front would would bottom out in the acorn nut and not tighten up properly leaving the front loose. Easy to check, just pull up on the front of the gas tank, if it moves, the bolts where probably swaped.

 

I had the clunk, sounded like the caliper or front fender was going to come off, so I went into a near-by HD shop (hoping whatever it was, was covered by warranty)
They (2 tech) stated whoever performed the 1000 mi. inspection should have seen it and that I should take it back to them to avoid being charged for adjusting the free fall.
I figured if they didn't get it right the first time why take it back to them.
I checked the free fall, only slightly loose, adjusted, test drove and the clunk was still there (when going over manhole covers, etc.)
I tried moving the tank, it seemed tight, I checked the torque on the tank bolt, it was loose, set to spec,(15-20 ft. lbs) clunk gone!
I think I'll order the belt deflection gauge![:@]

 

that's it! "makes the bike feel cheap" as soon as i read that that is the feeling i get when i hear that clunk... i will run to the dealership and pick up my washer as well. do i need to put the bike on a stand, or can i just do it on it's jiffy?

 

Can somone please give more details on this?
Are we talkin about taking off the chrome cap on top of the steering post where I take it there is an upper and lower bearing?
What does changing a washer do? Is it thicker/thinner?
I'am guessing if its a thinner washer that means it must be taking up slack making the bearing tighter. Is this a dealer "free" item? Thanks......

 

OK, is this some new problem that is common to the Dynas? This is the first I've heard about this one. I wasconsidering getting an Ultra, but after thinking about it a while I decided I didn't want that throttle by wire system (plus the price is a little steep) and a few other issues with the touring bikes put me off too.

Anyway, if this clunk thing is a design problem or something that's going on with a lot of the dynas, I'd really like to get your input about it.

Many thanks in advance,

John

 

As far as the "clunk" goes regarding the forks, it is a matter of the OEM washer with "tab" flexing under braking etc. and causing movement in the upper tree. HD finally acknowledged this earlier this year and came out with a fix which included a newer, thicker and hardened washer that does does bend to lock the nut but requires more torque than the original washer to do so. Just replace the washer (while on the jiffystand is just fine) with a little blue loctite and torque to 75 lbs......clunk is gone. It is a 5 min fix if you have the right tool. I rebuilt my frontend after doing the Wide Glide trees over the winter and have now put on 1000 miles in the past couple of weeks and not a peep.

 

When I talked to my local dealer about the service bulletin they said they would fix it weather it was in or out of warranty.They had to order it and said they would contact me when it came in, that was last week.