Ive searched and see alot of threads on this, but dont really see an actual step by step - though im not really great at searching

can someone confirm how this is done? I see where everyone says our forks dont have drain plug at bottom, but i seem to recall what looked like screws on the bottom of my fork legs - could be wrong though -
Is all thats needed to do is remove the forklegs from trees, remove the top nut, remove the spring, pour oil out (compress leg to remove from cartridge also) but then how much to refill, and how to ensure cartridge is refilled completely?

thanks

also any oil recommendatiosn for 200lb rider?

Thanks again

 

The screws on the bottom are not drain screws. The are seat pipe screws and hold the guts in the bottom of the tubes.

Remove caliper (leave brakeline attached), remove wheel, remove fender. Loosen pinch bolts one side at a time. Guide tubes from trees to ensure the don't freefall from the trees. Remove end caps (1 3/8" socket). These are under pressure from the spring so hold on to them. Becareful not to drop caps as they have fine threads and are easily damaged. Turn tube upside down to drain old fluid. Expand and collapse sliders several times to get old oil from internal components.

Proper level is achieved by measuring level of fluid from top of tube. FXDB should be 4.3" from top (approximately 26.6 ounces in each tube). Expand and collapse slide at least ten times to purge new oil you measure. Repeat the above to reassemble and reinstall.

 

+1 jmpancoast

I ran 7.5wt in my WG with Progressive springs with 8" preload piping. I weigh about 200 lbs. To measure the amount, I folded a zip tie at the 4.whatever inches and stuck it into the tube laying the fold over the edge of the tube. Start with pouring 26 oz of oil in, pump the assembly and then measure and add oil as needed.

Even for simple jobs like this, a service manual is a REALLY good investment.

 

thanks for the quick response! its really that easy? HD service guys here make it sound so difficult like it shouldnt be attempted by the untrained.
everyone out here talks about changing out to the 'heavy weight oil' - any body have any idea what that is? id like as firm a ride as possible out of changing oil weight. saw someone mentione extra heavy and possibly a racing weight?

 

and yea i know the manual would be a good buy - anyone know where to grab agood one cheap? to me the 70 bucks through hd stealership aint cheap.

thanks for all guys im - im waiting for a couple parts to finish my swingarm repair and i have both wheels off to get new rubber, so i figure ill do the fork oil change while shes up in the air too. specially since it sounds this simple.

Sean

 

It's pretty simple, actually. The stealer wanted 4 hours labor to install my chrome sliders. I did it myself in less than two hours.

The stock oil is 5wt. I believe Screaming Eagle "performance" oil is 15wt. I went with 7.5 because I was changing the springs and figured the new progressive rate with a 50% increase in oil weight would suffice.

Did it work? Hell, I don't know. The ride is so much more stable with the 3.25 rim and the 120 tire I don't know whow much difference the oil made.

I found my 06 manual on HDF for $35.

 

funny you mentioned the 120 - im putting my frt wheel back on with a 120 - that itself stiffened the front up?
think ill go straight to the 15wt if thats what you think the Se is - thanks for the feedback
ill check classified for manuals!

 

The 120 tire didn't. the WG front end can be squirrely at times with the wide forks and the 2.15x90 tire. The 120 on a 3.25 rim made a big difference.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

got ya
ok, i just opened up my tubes - the oil fill caliper side measured 6.5" from top of fork tube, and the other side measured 5.5" - what would cause that - forks havent been opened since new - approx 17k on the bike - isnt it cirtical that both sides measure equal?

 

sometin screwy with that

mud