Ok, I know this topic has been dragged out in many many many posts(I know because I attempted to read them)....

I'm installing the Kury front signal relocation kit on my 07 fxdc...How the heck do you reroute the wires? I don't want to cut the wires, and I really dont want to take the tank back off again...cant you open the light itself? I've been trying to figure out how to disasemble the light but can't seem to figure out how....any help would be great, and if you have picture its even better...I looked at it in the manual, but it doesn't say how to open up the light

 

i would say just cut and re solder them... that way you can run the wires any way you would like... that is whati did

 

I'm really trying not to have to sodder the wires....plus I would have to go and buy the soddering gun

 

I dont have my signals to take a pic but I just pulled them apart this week to powdercoat them. It was easy.....I pulled the covers off andthe bulbs out. Once out thereare two spots where the pins on the side of the bulbs lock into the blinker itself (the part that engages whenyou push and twist to get thebulb in or out) I took a dental tool with a small hook on it and hooked into the hole down near the wire contacts....pull gently and assembly will start to pull out, then remove tool and pull gently on other side. Plastic is only a pressure fitwith housing and rubber ring.

 

Dude, sorry to hijack. I can't help you with the wires because mine were pulled for me already when they installed the "f'ugly wing" kit.

But I was looking at your bike. Similar to mine on that side with the chrome except for the electrical cover that I don't have. I picked up a set of these (headbolt bridge covers)to add a little more chrome to the left side of that big battleship grey motor. Seems to help balance things out with the other side. Just a thought..



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Exactly whatMuddy is saying. I just did the same set up last week on my FXDC. The light housing comes apart and then you can feed the wire back through the trees. The dental pick makes its much easier.The little gromet on the back of the light housing can be a little bit of a pain. I used a little silicone spray lube to help re- install the gromet.

I was thinking the same thing at first. I did not want to hassle taking the tank and all off. Its actually really easy once you do it. The other issue I had was the Kury mounts pull the lights to close to the lower tree and do not seat flat. I mad a little spacer and the worked perfect. Good luck.

 

I like those covers....also, i just got the same headlight as you as well....I bought the new clip and connecters...I'm guessing I am going to have to tank off for this change as well huh?

 

lilrooster76,

Not sure if this will help but food for thought. I purchased some PAC Links, Male and Female. ( AT Power connectors )Cut the wires, stripped em and crimped the connectors on.
Before connecting the connectors I placed elec wire shrink wrap on, AND a braided covering.(purchased at Fry's electronics) Outpost.com, Same place, Outpost is the name of their online store.

The braided covering expands and contracts so you can place it on one side of the open wires and zip tie it out of the way untill you have all connections made and heatshrink your connections.
Once the connectors were connected, I slipped the heat shrink over them, shrunk it and added thina rubberized coat of elec sealer and then cut the zip tieto allow the braid covering to cover the wiresand finnish off theproject.

 

You dont need to solder. Buy crimp conectors and use heat shrink over top. Beter yet, go to a marine supplier and get the crimp ons that have a waterproof sealer already in them. You just put your wires in them, make your crimps, then heat them with a heat gun till you see the sealer\ glue starting to come out around the wires.
These are the only wire conectors I use on my saltwater boat. The wires will corrode before the joint will!

Cheers... Ben.

 

Now I've got a silly question kind of concerning lilrooster's not wanting to solder.
I also relocated front signals with on the first week I had the bike to the HD Fugly ones.
At that time, I did cut the wires and just crimped the wires together with electrical connectors and taped them up.
Rode for a couple of weeks that way, till I found an alternative to the Fugly kit.
I then did a home made tank lift, and homemade relocation kit, then I finally soldered the wires.

This being said, I honestly and probably would never have soldered the wires toghther if it weren't for reading it in this forum.

What would, or could have happened if I would have just left them crimped and taped?

Just curious....