hey all,

just wondering how involved it is to remove and replace the front brake line and clutch cable with braided ones?....i'm ordering both lines from magnum shielding...the new black pearl ones....but i don't see anything in the service manual that details the procedure....

any advice and tips to those who've done it?

thanks, paul

 

BRAKE LINE IS EAZY AS PIE THE CLUTCH CABLE ON THE OTHER HAND IS A LITTLE MORE TIME CONSUMING BUT NOT BAD. JUST BE CAREFUL TAKING IT APART THERE ARE PARTS IN THERE YOU DONT WANT ROLLING INTO THAT BLACK HOLE SOMEWHERE THAT HAS EVERYONES LOST $HIT IN.

 

paul, it's not bad - you have the skills.

It's all in the Shop Manual.

advice and tips -
take your time,
and post back here if you run into any issues.


mud

 

There is some good info on replacing cables (among other things) here:
My Ape Install

 

I did it and it was the first time I'd ever even heard of/used some of the tools involved. So, yeah...think Geico commercial.

Whiff

 

Be careful when tightening the clutch cable into the cover with after market cables - I over torqued mine and now I also have new cover :-)

What year is your bike? If it's older while you are in there you might want to put in an easy pull kit that is only about $10.

 

I've done my clutch cable a few times. There's really not much to it. The brake line is even easier, it's just bleeding the new one out that can be a pain sometimes. For some good tips on how to do it, look here............... https://www.hdforums.com/m_342455/tm.htm

 

hey, thanks for your vote of confidence Mud!...LOL....and thanks for the advice and links, all!..... will post back up with pics when this bad boy is done


incidentally, i went 8 inches over on the brake line and 4 inches over on the clutch due to the Wild chubs being wider than the stock apes and the fork length increasing by 2.5 inches with the 2 degree rake ....i should be okay?

incidentally, to those who asked, it's an '07 Bob with an '07 Wide Glide front end (forgot to include that!)....sorry

 

Haven't done my clutch cable, but the brake is pretty easy. I'm no mechanic, but this did work for me. I did not have to bleed mine. Just some patience and a lot of lightly tapping of the brake lever. By tapping, I mean just likepulling the lever, only just pull it about 1/8 of a inch, and let it go. That is the lever goes back to it's normal position and ithits the lever clamp(metal to metal vibration),it will work out all the air bubbles. The all you have to do is refill the resivior for the amount of fluid contained in the line, itself(only a very small amount). And please make sure you have good brakes, no mushyness,before you go riding.

 

To do the clutch cable you'll need to tighten the adjusters all the way together to give maximum slack at the handle and pull the cable out and away from the handle and pivot around to the front. Squeeze the handle and expose the holding pin and remove to release the cable from the handle. The side cover needs to come off with the cable attatched and then set it on a bench on top of some rags and hold it flush (gasket side down) and break the cable loose from the housing and unthread it all the way. It might be snug because there is lock tite sealant on the threads. Don't lose the "O" ring cause you'll probably need it as well as the rubber cover over the adjusters. Flip the cover over and remove the Snap ring with a good pair of medium sized snap ring pliers. pick out the clutch piston and you'll see some ball bearing in the bottom of the cover and just leave them in there but put the housing to the side so they don't go flying. They are not under tension but you don't want to lose them. Pivot the cable holder 180 degrees and turn and push the cable end out and work backwards to reassemble. It sounds alot more difficult than it is.