* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
#81
12-07-2007, 11:46 AM
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
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mudindex
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post# 41 ……fender chop…....................Posted by SPECIAL ED
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post# 42 ……good misc…..........................Posted by Chipstah
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post# 43 ……Tank pocket….....................Posted by Zimbob
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post# 44 ……front fender mod…..............Posted by SPECIAL ED
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post# 46 ……tank lift….....................Posted by Varmint
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post# 47 ……reroute breather…...............…x2lee
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post# 49 ……air fillter mod…..................Posted by 74c10sb
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post# 50 ……blackout fork tubes…........…Posted by TARTAN2
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post# 67 ……suck in rear sigs….................Posted by TheeBoy
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Thanx Tom. That's a good one.
Still haven't found the time to shine mine up.
To my eye, I prefer polished aluminum over chrome.
mud
mudindex
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CLICK BELOW for INDEXES
post# 1 ……front turn signals tuck……….Posted by mud
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post# 4 …… risers …................Posted by JRK5892
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post# 7 ……front signal relocate….......…Posted by HOGRIDA_06
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post# 9 ……forward stirrups….............Posted by 74c10sb
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post# 10 ……leather grips…................Posted by XKROME
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post# 11 ……A/C cover…................Posted by XKROME
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post# 13 ……move front signals…........…Posted by XKROME
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post# 33 ……internal bar wires…........…Posted by dklozik
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post# 36 ……tint lenses…..................Posted by JRK5892
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post# 39 ……rear signal mod….............Posted by XKROME
.post# 1 ……front turn signals tuck……….Posted by mud
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post# 4 …… risers …................Posted by JRK5892
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post# 7 ……front signal relocate….......…Posted by HOGRIDA_06
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post# 9 ……forward stirrups….............Posted by 74c10sb
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post# 10 ……leather grips…................Posted by XKROME
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post# 11 ……A/C cover…................Posted by XKROME
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post# 13 ……move front signals…........…Posted by XKROME
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post# 33 ……internal bar wires…........…Posted by dklozik
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post# 36 ……tint lenses…..................Posted by JRK5892
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post# 39 ……rear signal mod….............Posted by XKROME
post# 41 ……fender chop…....................Posted by SPECIAL ED
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post# 42 ……good misc…..........................Posted by Chipstah
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post# 43 ……Tank pocket….....................Posted by Zimbob
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post# 44 ……front fender mod…..............Posted by SPECIAL ED
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post# 46 ……tank lift….....................Posted by Varmint
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post# 47 ……reroute breather…...............…x2lee
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post# 49 ……air fillter mod…..................Posted by 74c10sb
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post# 50 ……blackout fork tubes…........…Posted by TARTAN2
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post# 67 ……suck in rear sigs….................Posted by TheeBoy
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Still haven't found the time to shine mine up.
To my eye, I prefer polished aluminum over chrome.
mud
Last edited by mud; 01-16-2011 at 04:33 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DyNaMc (07-22-2018)
#82
12-07-2007, 11:52 AM
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Not sure if a Softail guy is allowed to post over here in Dyna country
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Use some SS treaded rod, I used SS carrage bolts
and cut the threaded section to lengths needed.
Jam acorn nuts on the ends with some JB Weld so they don't come apart.
I would have used a stainless steel pin through the nut and rod
but couldn't find any,
and the JB seems to do the job well enough anyway.
And the finished product.
I think they look a lot better,
you can remove them a lot easier than the soft Torx headed bolts
andI don't have to worry about them rusting.
Not sure if a Softail guy is allowed to post over here in Dyna country
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Use some SS treaded rod, I used SS carrage bolts
and cut the threaded section to lengths needed.
Jam acorn nuts on the ends with some JB Weld so they don't come apart.
I would have used a stainless steel pin through the nut and rod
but couldn't find any,
and the JB seems to do the job well enough anyway.
And the finished product.
I think they look a lot better,
you can remove them a lot easier than the soft Torx headed bolts
andI don't have to worry about them rusting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
#83
12-07-2007, 01:30 PM
#84
12-07-2007, 02:02 PM
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Elizabethtown, Pa
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RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Thanx for pointing that link out troll.
I know for a fact that you do great work,
as I have one of your tank lifts on the MudGlide
(pictured below in my sig
click the blowup for a closer view)
On the MudSickle I raised the tank by
cutting off the flange and rewelding it
for a 2 1/4" lift.
The trolllift, I requested 1 1/4"
and that's exactly what was delivered.
mud
ORIGINAL: shoptroll
The link under my sig pic will take you to the gallery of all the stuff I've made
and everything was made for next to nothing
and made with basic hand tools and power equipment.
The link under my sig pic will take you to the gallery of all the stuff I've made
and everything was made for next to nothing
and made with basic hand tools and power equipment.
I know for a fact that you do great work,
as I have one of your tank lifts on the MudGlide
(pictured below in my sig
click the blowup for a closer view)
On the MudSickle I raised the tank by
cutting off the flange and rewelding it
for a 2 1/4" lift.
The trolllift, I requested 1 1/4"
and that's exactly what was delivered.
mud
What kind of seat is on your bike? That bad-boy sure is dished out! Don't think you'll be slidin' off the back anytime soon! 
#85
12-07-2007, 02:15 PM
May our Moderator Rest in Peace
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
You don't "have" to use grade 5 or better stainless steel or bolts for it like I did.Common Home Depot or Lowes mild steel treaded rodworks just as well for most things. Just don't use that kind of thing for any parts that usually call for agrade 5 or better fastener.
I use all stainless becauseI like the idea of using stainless steeltoreduce or eliminatethe problems associated withrusted inbolts later.
One thing to be aware of, at least with the fender strut bolts, is that the bolts are not of a uniform length. Something I didn't knowwhen I was doing it soImade the mistake of making them all the same length.
OOPS!!
I think on the fender struts its some kind of clearance issue with the tire so its something that needs to be considered.
So make sure of your measurements before you start it'll savesave you fromsome extra work.
#86
12-07-2007, 04:25 PM
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: Citoriplus
Thanks,
You don't "have" to use grade 5 or better stainless steel or bolts for it like I did. Common Home Depot or Lowes mild steel threaded rod works just as well for most things. Just don't use that kind of thing for any parts that usually call for a grade 5 or better fastener.
I use all stainless because I like the idea of using stainless steel to reduce or eliminate the problems associated with rusted in bolts later.
One thing to be aware of, at least with the fender strut bolts, is that the bolts are not of a uniform length. Something I didn't know when I was doing it so I made the mistake of making them all the same length.
OOPS!!
I think on the fender struts its some kind of clearance issue with the tire so its something that needs to be considered.
So make sure of your measurements before you start it'll save you from some extra work.
ORIGINAL: mudpuddle
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
Thanx Citori. Appreciate the posting.
Two real good ones.
I'm gonna replace some of the fasteners myownself one of these daze
Nice technique you use.
mud
You don't "have" to use grade 5 or better stainless steel or bolts for it like I did. Common Home Depot or Lowes mild steel threaded rod works just as well for most things. Just don't use that kind of thing for any parts that usually call for a grade 5 or better fastener.
I use all stainless because I like the idea of using stainless steel to reduce or eliminate the problems associated with rusted in bolts later.
One thing to be aware of, at least with the fender strut bolts, is that the bolts are not of a uniform length. Something I didn't know when I was doing it so I made the mistake of making them all the same length.
OOPS!!
I think on the fender struts its some kind of clearance issue with the tire so its something that needs to be considered.
So make sure of your measurements before you start it'll save you from some extra work.
Myownself, there will be no farm grade fasteners on my sickle.
Torque values are important as well.
Many do not realize those values are calculated for a reason.
For example, overTorqueing a fastener, you are stretching it.
Here's another under 50 project -
build a taillite can with attached license plate and inspection sticker.
Built this for the MudSickle earlier this year.
First couple pix are the can.
Just about ready to be welded shut.
I use the paper cocaCola 12 pack cartons for cutting
out my patterns before sizing the sheet metal.
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Next picture is underside showing shaped license plate inspection sticker metal.
Heavier stock at the top of the picture welds into the fender at three points,
and is tapped to accept the 3 bolts that attaches the can
and license plate inspection sticker platform.
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Here next, a trial fit to fender before I folded the inspection sticker area down
to conform to tire radius.
This photo also shows some of the area where I welded the fender together.
I started with three softail fenders,
split one in half lengthwise,
widened to fit width of the 06Dyna struts.
Used the other two for parts and pieces here and there.
You can also see the license plate lights receptacles.
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Next, just about done with the can.
I did get a lecture from a cop after a pullover for a 95 in a 65 indiscretion.
He mentioned the lack of visibility of the tag expiration sticker
after listing 6 or 8 other infractions that he could write up.
He read me the riot act for about 10 minutes
then handed my paperwork back
and said I need to slow it down a little.
No tickets.
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54 LEDs on the brake/tail,
6 on each turn sig.
Lites up real good.
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Next picture - the MudSickle in service
for a 5/6 month road test.
At this time parts are all on the shelf
waiting patiently for me to find time
to squirt some color on em.
Duct tape seat, another cheap project.
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Last edited by mud; 01-15-2020 at 06:11 AM. Reason: replace one picture
#87
12-07-2007, 04:28 PM
#88
12-07-2007, 04:34 PM
Road Warrior
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Mainly for Super Glides- you can take off and spray the trim down the tank silver to match the engine (or any other color, I guess). Something a little different than the usual black or chrome. I don't have pix during the job, but you can see the results in this shot.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nsbikes015.jpg
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nsbikes015.jpg
#89
12-07-2007, 05:01 PM
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: Dawg Rider
Mainly for Super Glides-
you can take off and spray the trim down the tank silver to match the engine
(or any other color, I guess).
Something a little different than the usual black or chrome.
I don't have pix during the job, but you can see the results in this shot.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nsbikes015.jpg
Mainly for Super Glides-
you can take off and spray the trim down the tank silver to match the engine
(or any other color, I guess).
Something a little different than the usual black or chrome.
I don't have pix during the job, but you can see the results in this shot.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/b...nsbikes015.jpg
The contrast is very nice.
Did you smooth off the wrinkles,
or was it wrinkled to start??
mud
Last edited by mud; 02-24-2015 at 05:11 PM.
