Mud,
Thanks for creating the index. Will make searching for a specific mod much easier.

 

Hi All,
This only works on the bikes with a PLASTIC license bracket. Cost: 2 hrs. plus some stainless nuts, bolts and washers.I jacked up the bike and removed the lower shock bolts so the wheel would drop down. Then CAREFULLY removed the wires from the little clips inside the tail lite and unbolted the lites. Using the lite brackets for a pattern I drilled 2 holes in each side of the license plate bracket. Next feed the wires back into the tail lite, rebolt the lites using the fender washers for backup inside the plastic license bracket. plug in the wires and check that they work.Thenreplace the tail lite lens. Fill in the unused holes in your struts with the allen bolts or whatever you prefer, maybe reflecters. SorryI could not upload pics. E-mail me I will send them.
Fred [align=right][/align]






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RE: Cheap Wideglide or Softail rear turn signal relocater - 2/13/2008 4:45:35 PM








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[IMG]http://www.hdforums

 

Good job Thomas. Looking forward to the rest of the series.

Roncame up with a good one here,
and, his will be hard to beat.

I have a dipper to work with now,
but, it does not look promising.

The 06 up Dyna has a hard to deal with design.

mud

 

Thanks Dan.

Lots of good stuff here.

mud

 

Thanx for the input SUPER.

Nice to hear that there is interest.

mud

 

harle, would like to see your license bracket mod.

eMail to me if you want help editing your posting
with some useable images etc.

Appreciate the interest.

mud

 

I am making another one today I started yesterday, new way to do it... I dont know if it will work for you on an 06 dyna stick
the rubber comes off the sticks ater you get the indicator off, it just prys right out or it may twist on a newer model.
the rubber sealis quite thick at the top, almost an inch. I took a 5/8 paddlebit and drilled a hole about 5/8 deep it formed a very nice hole. very factory looking clean cut(I was surprised). then I ground some nubs on the blade tip where it enters the rubber to grab at the steel epoxy that I filled the rubber hole up with. makes like a hat for the top of the blade and noway will it loosen up. I think its stronger than the original...
attached a diagram...

 

second one.

1. Drill hole in rubber seal w 5/8 paddle bit
2. Grind blade to fit hole I made it into a T shape and I sharpened the tip...
3. Force sharpened tip thro rubber. (be damned careful here you could cut off your fingers on the razor sharp blade)
4. Twist blade 1 half turn so its out of the slot.
5. tape up blade level and square.
6. Fill top hole with epoxy.
7. replace metal cap.

[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/C9036D33514F462388A8ABA655699720.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/5CCA97A1A15B402C8398F536CFD95F8D.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/D3A8FC17111F4A8086D34FDA756EEDBD.jpg[/IMG]

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Finished!

Almost...
All I have to do now is put the chrome cap back on, and grind the blood marks on it.
Tommorrow.

[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/5E54E424121843A4A0A4B5998677263A.jpg[/IMG]

 

Under $50 and worth every singel penny of the $10 it costs!

Drag Specialties Polyurethene (sp?) Handlebar bushings. I installed a set of these, purchased from Dennis Kirk, to go along with my new 6" straight risers and the difference is night and day with the control and response of the handlebars now.


Another cheap mod...remove the stock fender strut covers if you want the black look;