* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
#351
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
"The gawdame mirrors got some kinda worthless trivia on em -
something about appearances -
and it don't look like I can remove that crap."
hey mud maybe you can replace those gawdame mirrors with some of these
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...All&page=1
#352
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Those mirrors are on my scoot,I was so proud I took a pic. Someone posted and says Aint that you in the pic?
Dammit! Im so pissed I'm gonna go take some stickers offMudpuddles biketoo!
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/CF79895EB0A047CD972A565BB47335FA.jpg[/IMG]
Dammit! Im so pissed I'm gonna go take some stickers offMudpuddles biketoo!
ORIGINAL: XKROME
"The gawdame mirrors got some kinda worthless trivia on em -
something about appearances -
and it don't look like I can remove that crap."
hey mud maybe you can replace those gawdame mirrors with some of these
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...All&page=1
"The gawdame mirrors got some kinda worthless trivia on em -
something about appearances -
and it don't look like I can remove that crap."
hey mud maybe you can replace those gawdame mirrors with some of these
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...All&page=1
#353
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Mud,
Here's a photo shop, I think I'm just going to trim the extra fat off by matching the radius of the pulley, trimming the bottom so its level with the bottom of the belt,and cut out some of that triangle.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9081/984159B925BC418E892F342D421D944B.jpg[/IMG]
Here's a photo shop, I think I'm just going to trim the extra fat off by matching the radius of the pulley, trimming the bottom so its level with the bottom of the belt,and cut out some of that triangle.
[IMG]local://upfiles/9081/984159B925BC418E892F342D421D944B.jpg[/IMG]
#354
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: WS6 Formula
Mud,
Here's a photo shop, I think I'm just going to trim the extra fat off
by matching the radius of the pulley,
trimming the bottom so its level with the bottom of the belt,
and cut out some of that triangle.
[img]local://upfiles/9081/984159B925BC418E892F342D421D944B.jpg[/img]
Mud,
Here's a photo shop, I think I'm just going to trim the extra fat off
by matching the radius of the pulley,
trimming the bottom so its level with the bottom of the belt,
and cut out some of that triangle.
[img]local://upfiles/9081/984159B925BC418E892F342D421D944B.jpg[/img]
All those straight lines are gonna be time consuming.
What do you plan to use for trimming up the penetrations??
I used a combination of high speed die grinder, chain saw file,
flat file, Barlow Knife for the easy ones bored with the hole saw.
The resin is ugly to work with.
Took longer than I woulda thought.
I only had two straight lines to deal with,
they were harder than the round holes and the radiuses.
Post up some pix and thoughts when you do yours.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Last edited by mud; 01-16-2020 at 11:51 AM.
#355
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: x2lee
Those mirrors are on my scoot,I was so proud I took a pic. Someone posted and says Aint that you in the pic?
Dammit! Im so pissed I'm gonna go take some stickers offMudpuddles biketoo!
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/CF79895EB0A047CD972A565BB47335FA.jpg[/IMG]
Those mirrors are on my scoot,I was so proud I took a pic. Someone posted and says Aint that you in the pic?
Dammit! Im so pissed I'm gonna go take some stickers offMudpuddles biketoo!
ORIGINAL: XKROME
"The gawdame mirrors got some kinda worthless trivia on em -
something about appearances -
and it don't look like I can remove that crap."
hey mud maybe you can replace those gawdame mirrors with some of these
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...All&page=1
"The gawdame mirrors got some kinda worthless trivia on em -
something about appearances -
and it don't look like I can remove that crap."
hey mud maybe you can replace those gawdame mirrors with some of these
http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...All&page=1
#356
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: Beefy
I saw this on a bike yesterday and did it this morning.
After putting the HD wing kit on I really didn't like how it made the front end look,
and I like the closer fit of Kuriyakan
but also didn't want a clamp on my tube.
So by chance, unless someone already posted this and I missed it,
is my no or little dough blinker mod.
This show's the difference.
I saw this on a bike yesterday and did it this morning.
After putting the HD wing kit on I really didn't like how it made the front end look,
and I like the closer fit of Kuriyakan
but also didn't want a clamp on my tube.
So by chance, unless someone already posted this and I missed it,
is my no or little dough blinker mod.
This show's the difference.
Good job Beef.
Thanx for posting all the pix.
That makes a real big difference on these HOW TOs.
mud
#357
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs (Elgin/Schaumburg)
Posts: 19,481
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23 Posts
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
GREAT TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION... found it on the sporty forum... from 128AUTO
https://www.hdforums.com/m_888979/tm.htm
Great idea!!
Hi all, I just relocated the turn signal on my 06 Sprotster and want to share with you people what I have done to it.
Material and tool:
1. 3/8 x 16 threaded rod
2. 3/8 x 16 nut x 2
3. 5/16 x 24 nut x 2
4. 3/8 spring washer x 2
5. Hack saw
6. Tap and die kit (standard size)
7. 1” length Rubber boot x 2
8. Zip ties
9. Bench grinder
10. Vernier caliper
You can find this threaded rod in any hardware store like Home Depot, it costs me $2.50. I cut 2” length off the rod and I have a stud as a fastener. I grind one end down to 0.3” diameter and 1/2” length, you have to grind it evenly and slowly, measure it with a vernier caliper. Then I start threading the smaller end with a 5/16 x 24 die, the size is same as the factory bullet turn signal threaded hole. Make sure you thread it straight to begin with, it isn’t hard at all. After all, I have a 2” length stud, one end with 3/8 and the other end 5/16, nice! I took the lower triple tree fork-mounting bolt out, put the stud in with blue loctite by hand till it bottoms out. Then I put the 3/8 nut + spring washer on the stud and torque to specification. Now it is time to mount the turn signal, before I do that, I slide the rubber boot onto the stud so it covers the nut and stud nicely, looks awesome. I put the small 5/16 nut on the small end, screw the turn signal on the stud about 3-4 turns, adjust the position to level, lock the small 5/16 nut. Job is done, it took me 30 minutes to complete the turn signal relocation.
To be honest, I am not cheap, but I do not like the turn signal relocation kit they sell in the market, as least this one looks very clean, not a second bracket on the fork. I am very happy with it and I have saved $50 for other mod. By the way, if you don’t want to mount the turn signal on the lower part, you can mount them on the upper bolts, different look. Cheers! I hope my instruction is clear enough.
*Rubber boots can be found in Autozone, part number part # H5659*
https://www.hdforums.com/m_888979/tm.htm
Great idea!!
Hi all, I just relocated the turn signal on my 06 Sprotster and want to share with you people what I have done to it.
Material and tool:
1. 3/8 x 16 threaded rod
2. 3/8 x 16 nut x 2
3. 5/16 x 24 nut x 2
4. 3/8 spring washer x 2
5. Hack saw
6. Tap and die kit (standard size)
7. 1” length Rubber boot x 2
8. Zip ties
9. Bench grinder
10. Vernier caliper
You can find this threaded rod in any hardware store like Home Depot, it costs me $2.50. I cut 2” length off the rod and I have a stud as a fastener. I grind one end down to 0.3” diameter and 1/2” length, you have to grind it evenly and slowly, measure it with a vernier caliper. Then I start threading the smaller end with a 5/16 x 24 die, the size is same as the factory bullet turn signal threaded hole. Make sure you thread it straight to begin with, it isn’t hard at all. After all, I have a 2” length stud, one end with 3/8 and the other end 5/16, nice! I took the lower triple tree fork-mounting bolt out, put the stud in with blue loctite by hand till it bottoms out. Then I put the 3/8 nut + spring washer on the stud and torque to specification. Now it is time to mount the turn signal, before I do that, I slide the rubber boot onto the stud so it covers the nut and stud nicely, looks awesome. I put the small 5/16 nut on the small end, screw the turn signal on the stud about 3-4 turns, adjust the position to level, lock the small 5/16 nut. Job is done, it took me 30 minutes to complete the turn signal relocation.
To be honest, I am not cheap, but I do not like the turn signal relocation kit they sell in the market, as least this one looks very clean, not a second bracket on the fork. I am very happy with it and I have saved $50 for other mod. By the way, if you don’t want to mount the turn signal on the lower part, you can mount them on the upper bolts, different look. Cheers! I hope my instruction is clear enough.
*Rubber boots can be found in Autozone, part number part # H5659*
#358
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
Mud,
After seeing your drilled out belt cover reminded me of the modified air cleaner my wifes uncle did to his football cover.
You drill holes (1/2"dia. maybe?) on the plastic back plate along the front and bottom to increase air flow, don't know what size holes or spacing but it shouldn't be to hard to figure out. He left the top alone so rain would not get in the air filter since it was the stock style.
There's a freebie how to, only takes some of your time.
After seeing your drilled out belt cover reminded me of the modified air cleaner my wifes uncle did to his football cover.
You drill holes (1/2"dia. maybe?) on the plastic back plate along the front and bottom to increase air flow, don't know what size holes or spacing but it shouldn't be to hard to figure out. He left the top alone so rain would not get in the air filter since it was the stock style.
There's a freebie how to, only takes some of your time.
#359
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: SUPER01
Mud,
After seeing your drilled out belt cover reminded me of the modified air cleaner
my wifes uncle did to his football cover.
You drill holes (1/2"dia. maybe?) on the plastic back plate along the front and bottom
to increase air flow, don't know what size holes or spacing
but it shouldn't be to hard to figure out.
He left the top alone so rain would not get in the air filter since it was the stock style.
There's a freebie how to, only takes some of your time.
Mud,
After seeing your drilled out belt cover reminded me of the modified air cleaner
my wifes uncle did to his football cover.
You drill holes (1/2"dia. maybe?) on the plastic back plate along the front and bottom
to increase air flow, don't know what size holes or spacing
but it shouldn't be to hard to figure out.
He left the top alone so rain would not get in the air filter since it was the stock style.
There's a freebie how to, only takes some of your time.
Cheap Power.
Thanks.
mud
#360
RE: HOW TO - under fifty bux
ORIGINAL: XKROME
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/CF79895EB0A047CD972A565BB47335FA.jpg[/IMG]
i had them too but alas they where KROME so they got traded for black.
if anyone ever comes across non-KROME a$$ hole mirrors PLEASE let me know
[IMG]local://upfiles/30673/CF79895EB0A047CD972A565BB47335FA.jpg[/IMG]
i had them too but alas they where KROME so they got traded for black.
if anyone ever comes across non-KROME a$$ hole mirrors PLEASE let me know
XK - paint em???
I myownself wouldn't run em cause they gotta decal.
And, besides that, azsholes??
Yeah - eversinglebody has one.
mud