* HOW TO * under fifty bux *
#1951
02-19-2013, 05:29 AM
.
.
six years ago. I believe it is called polypan.
worked OK, hard people to deal with...
went back and looked at my original posting # 660 feb 08.
a lot of the pix have disappeared,
so, I'll update here.......
.
.
.....seat pan etc for modified 006 FXD....
..........................April 2007....
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
six years ago. I believe it is called polypan.
worked OK, hard people to deal with...
went back and looked at my original posting # 660 feb 08.
a lot of the pix have disappeared,
so, I'll update here.......
.
.
.....seat pan etc for modified 006 FXD....
..........................April 2007....
.
..
. .
.....Producing the "pan" to fit for stock frame, custom fender.....
....above, First of all, tape off the surface where the resin will lay,
and drape the rest of your machine with plastic sheeting.
Draw the perimeter shape onto the tape,
then build a clay fence on that line.
The clay fence is 3/8", that's how thick I want the resin.
You can see I put a one inch wide thin cardboard under the outer edge,
and drape the rest of your machine with plastic sheeting.
Draw the perimeter shape onto the tape,
then build a clay fence on that line.
The clay fence is 3/8", that's how thick I want the resin.
You can see I put a one inch wide thin cardboard under the outer edge,
that's the red line,
so the upholstery can tuck under for attachment, when the time comes.....
so the upholstery can tuck under for attachment, when the time comes.....
.....Below, the front mounting tab is one inch wide by eighth cold rolled strap.
Perforated so the resin will lock it in good.
Stubby little bolt at the rear, holds it up a bit so the resin will fully encapsulate it.
The front end of the strap simply slides in under the rear tank bolt,
just as the factory mounting.
Perforated so the resin will lock it in good.
Stubby little bolt at the rear, holds it up a bit so the resin will fully encapsulate it.
The front end of the strap simply slides in under the rear tank bolt,
just as the factory mounting.
blue line is draft....
..
..
.....The two perforated tabs shown below are welded to a short piece of tubing with a nut welded on the end,
for seat attachment.
Draft everything, so the finished pan will release when you're done.
You can see the draft below dropping down from the shock mount tube,
and above, you see it there near the front where the main frame backbone is.
(blue lines - draft).....
.Draft everything, so the finished pan will release when you're done.
You can see the draft below dropping down from the shock mount tube,
and above, you see it there near the front where the main frame backbone is.
(blue lines - draft).....
.
..
.....The middle points for this two up seat mounting are shown by the black dot below.
This mounting point will also serve as the rear attachment when I build a solo seat....
.This mounting point will also serve as the rear attachment when I build a solo seat....
.
..
.....Rear mounting tab for the two up seat shown below.
Also, notice the inside of the clay wall should be smooth.
The outside, only needs to be neat.
Also notice along the bottom edge where the clay wall intersects the taped off surface,
the clay radiuses slightly, so the finished resin edge is not sharp.....
.Also, notice the inside of the clay wall should be smooth.
The outside, only needs to be neat.
Also notice along the bottom edge where the clay wall intersects the taped off surface,
the clay radiuses slightly, so the finished resin edge is not sharp.....
.
..
.....This next picture, I've already started removing the plastic sheeting,
tape, etc that keeps the wet resin off of the machine.
The resin sets in about 45 minutes, that's the "pot life".
This resin, you want to leave it where it lies for 24 hours,
it's a slow cure, and stays slightly flexible, until fully cured.....
tape, etc that keeps the wet resin off of the machine.
The resin sets in about 45 minutes, that's the "pot life".
This resin, you want to leave it where it lies for 24 hours,
it's a slow cure, and stays slightly flexible, until fully cured.....
.
.
..
.....Now, below, the clay and tape etc has been removed,
and the pan is ready for upholstery,
(except for roughing up the surface to bond the padding).....
..
..
..
..
.....Here's a shot from farther back.....
..
..
.....july 09... threw on some cheap foam and a piece of scrap leather for now...
...first rough up the resin........
........then attach and shape foam...........
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
..
.
.
Last edited by mud; 02-19-2013 at 05:38 AM.
#1953
02-19-2013, 04:42 PM
Stage III
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#1955
02-19-2013, 10:55 PM
6th Gear
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Green Bay, Wisconsin
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#1957
02-20-2013, 05:19 PM
.
.
thank you sir. appreciate the compliment.
.
.
.
.
.
.
the two word postings with no reference
really make it hard to know what the fork is being spoken of....
.
.
.
.
.
thanx Quad.
curious -
are you speaking of the lead skin,
or the beating I gave it??
.
.
.
#1959
02-21-2013, 04:47 PM
.
.
.
yessir. I should probably post up a pictorial on that process.
under 50 bux, butt, probably 100 hammer hours.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
yessir. I should probably post up a pictorial on that process.
definitely under 50 bux.
.
.
.
.
.
yessir. I should probably post up a pictorial on that process.
under 50 bux, butt, probably 100 hammer hours.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
yessir. I should probably post up a pictorial on that process.
definitely under 50 bux.
.
.
.
#1960
03-18-2013, 11:59 PM
Novice
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ALabama
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mr
How about something for the Black'd out Exhaust mod? I forget who originally posted it. I will try and sift through the board and find it if possible.
Basic run down was just to purchase some Flat Black Paint. The BBQ paint you could find at like Lowes/Home Depot seems to have worked the best. I spent about $18 I believe for 2 cans, masking tape, and sandpaper. I have logged about 7K miles since I painted my exhaust with only a minor scratch of the paint due to removal of Mid-control's. For those of you who want the black look for cheap, this is an easy one to do...and nobody can tell they weren't ceramic coated unless you tell them if done right.
Basic run down was just to purchase some Flat Black Paint. The BBQ paint you could find at like Lowes/Home Depot seems to have worked the best. I spent about $18 I believe for 2 cans, masking tape, and sandpaper. I have logged about 7K miles since I painted my exhaust with only a minor scratch of the paint due to removal of Mid-control's. For those of you who want the black look for cheap, this is an easy one to do...and nobody can tell they weren't ceramic coated unless you tell them if done right.
Put the RHinehart Black ceramic on my 2012 FXDF and they got a nice long scratch on the bottom pipe after a quick lean, used the same BBQ flat paint and can't even tell. I am still looking for someone who might be getting a lot of vibration from their pipes but being so new to this forum I don't know were to post and making an *** out of myself is the last thing I want to do. Just a little guidance might help. Thanks much.