where did you get the ball joints? is that from the lawn mower place

 

Yes the ball joints came from Western Auto. Mine were 5/16" with 24 thread count. Take yours off and run by any mower shop and they should be able to order what ever yours are. My ultra has the threads already in the tranny arm so all I needed there was the bolt. The front had to have a bolt with a cap nut. Be sure to use lock tight.

 

I think I would go with McMaster Carr




before I put any lawn mower parts on my machine.......


http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=w1uzr

mud
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Mud, It would not surprise me that the ones I got did not come from them at one point. I might have saved a couple dollar. These do have the stainless ball with brass race. There is no grease zert but I would rather not have that sticking up in the air. A drop of oil every once in a while will keep them shaking.

 

wouldn't surprise me either HB.

McM has with w/o zerk any size style male female etc etc etc..

I just tend to shy away from the lawn and garden stores for the M/C.

mud

 

got it done... thanks guys! i was able to use brass rod and rev thread it for what i needed... ha ha ha ha and i should have the ball joints from Mcaster Carr today as well so if it will not work the way i have it set up i can always do the old switch a roo.

 

This is what got me going on this one.....
Arrival of the Ricor Intiminator Fork Inserts and Amsoil Skock Therapy Suspension Fluid.
Ordered this package one afternoon,
and it was in my hands two days later.
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This component only gets seen one time.
Then they are buried into the front forks and hidden forever.
These are a work of art in their construction,
and then they work for you on every single ride.
Out of sight, but not out of mind.

In Prehistoric Times, the Caveman invented the wheel one day.
Next morning he developed the Harley Davidson Front Suspension that we still to this day see on the ShowRoom Floor.
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here's how I service the front forks................

First off, lift the machine.

Probably takes about an hour and a half, taking your time to install.

I'm doing some other things at the same time, so it took all day to complete.

Not strapped down yet in the picture below.
I always strap to the lift if removing a lot of weight from one end.
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below.......

this is 006 FXDI with 006 FXDWG fork pipes

cover painted parts that are anywhere close...

remove the caliper.......... 10 mm 12 point..

tie it up out of the way with a piece of wire

remove the fender............ 1/2" box end wrench and 1/4" allen

lay all the fasteners etc in a tray, in the order of removal.
(clean them good before reassembly)

remove axle nut.......... 3/4" socket.

loosen the axle cap........ 30 torx..

grab the tire/wheel at the top, and pull the axle out..
it will slide right out, cause you used anti seize last time it was apart..

loosen pinch bolts.......... 45 torx.
here, you are holding the fork pipe so gravity doesn't eject it onto your toe.
ease the assembly out, carefully, not to scar anything........
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Now, I am going to remove the clear coating, and polish the lowers..........

I use paint remover first, put some on, it works quick...
move it around to the next area, etc etc....
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Now, the clear coating is gone for the most part,
wipe residue off with a rag,
then move to the sink, and use a Medium Fine Steel Wool for final cleanOff....
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Outside to the Quick Release Polishing Motor Fixture....
two grades of Rouge, and hang on tight.
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Aluminum can get real shiny.
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After the high power rouge treatment, I finish off with a Metal Polish.
This X-TREEM is my favorite, it works real good.
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I built my Cap Removal device using an old 5 gallon bucket and a Spud Wrench.
(use a new or clean bucket if you want to save the oil)
This device allows you to control the spring loaded cap release/launch
and capture the fluids in one nice clean operation.

Leave it there to drain off for 10-15 minutes or about two cold drinks.
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After the drain off,

remove and clean the spring collar/spacer, washer, and spring.

now, clamp into the handy/cheap fork clamp/vise.

I clamp a board to the bench, then use two tie straps in a X pattern.

First I clamp the lower,
fully compress the fork,
pour in about 26 oz of fluid to start
(no spring, washer, collar yet).
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below, backside of the fork clamp/vise........
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below is my Oil Level DipStick.
for my 006 WG fork pipes, level is 110 mm, measured down from the top of the pipe.

If you prefer the HD Gauge, I believe you can pick it up for around 60 bux....
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stroke the assembly slowly from fully collapsed to fully extended,
look in with a flashlight and you will see the air evacuation.
takes about 8-10 slow strokes...

now hang the DipStick on and measure the level
006 WG fork pipes, level is 110 mm (approx 29 oz)
all other 006 Dyna pipes, level is 112 mm (approx 26 oz)

Absolute precision on that measurement
is not as critical as getting each of the pipe levels equal.
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When the Oil Level is correct,
unClamp the assembly, reClamp on the upper, and fully extend the forks.

drop in the Intiminator and push it into the oil with the spring.
(factory spring goes in with the tight winds down)

then the Washer goes in, then the collar/spacer.....
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During the disassembly, I lay out all the parts in order.
Clean them up good for reassembly.
I use a light film of Anti Seize on the axle........
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With the stock length collar/spacer, it is tough to screw on the cap.

Take care and carefully ratchet the fine threaded 1 3/8" cap on while still in the strap clamp/vise.
(final torque value for the caps is 16-43 ft lbs......
I do this after the pipes are in the trees.....
pinch bolts go down to 30-35 ft lbs).

I get up on my little dance floor so I can power the cap down with better control.
A few rides so far, and I really see/feel the difference.

I've been aiming for potholes and
I can actually watch the wheel moving up
without feeling the shock through the chassis/bars.

Railroad tracks have gotten smoother
front dive with the front braking is very controlled
not the slam down as with Stock.
front dive with rear braking alone is just about zero now.

One observation, on high speed sweeps........
Some of our Texas Hill Country roads are really a lot of fun.
I've been riding on them since 1965 on all kinds of HDs,
Starting with a 1964 XLCH (badass machine, way primitive when looking back now).

I know these roads well........
in 95, I had a 96 SportSter Sport XLS (it had pretty fair suspension),
and I would regulary run those sweeps at 120 with confidence.

Last few years, on my 006 FXD, 100 mph was about the limit.
Yesterday, back to 120 with full confidence with the Intiminators and the Ohlins.
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Fantastic write up!