Planning on taking the 2013 96 to a 107. Efforting to keep the build as close to 2k as possible and keep my stock parts intact.

Already have a spare set of 103 heads with ACR, with 10k on them. Planning on a stock rebuild with a bit of home cartridge roll clean up and kibblewhite .610 springs and valves. It looks like the 555 cam will only do about 6-10 HP more with ported heads, not worth 1k to me.

Looking at the FM EZ (woods555) kit with new bores and adding comp cam lifters, fueling tensioners and chains.

Still unsure on the lifters, but I’ve run factory evo sporty lifters on mid-level street cams for thousands of miles without issue.

Another question is the ACR, found new ones for $80 bucks and wouldn’t mind having them connected to the ECU. Wondering if I can hillbilly it up and use a momentary switch, like a kill switch on a dirt bike to pick the solenoids during cranking. Looking for info on the current draw of the ACRS to see if I might need a pilot relay.

This is my first TC build and I have more questions than answers. Thanks.

 

What do you have for a tuner? They make a wiring kit that is inexpensive to hook them up into your bike. I have used it.

Buy the wiring kit.

But what do you have to tune your new build and turn them on?

 

My previous bagger, a 2012 Ultra Limited 103", had factory ACRs. You MAY have the plug in your harness already, and just need to plug OEM ACRs in. Or maybe get a short pigtail adapter. Then just a flash in your tune would make them work as OEM.

it's worth looking into..


For lifters, I always Johnson Hylift from WFO Larry @ Larry's Motorcycle & Machine. They are a high quality lifter at a reasonable price. I know many techs who use them on all, including big budget, engine builds.

http://www.larrysmotorcyclemachine.com/lifters.html

 

I got kibble white springs boy are they stiff.

Replace cam bearings since open and probably pads, so you can forget about .

I just had local machine shop bore my 96 to 103, $250.

 

I run electric ACR:s on my 2002 Dyna, that has no ECU support for such novelties.

I have simply connected them to the starter solenoid so they are open as long as the starter button is pressed.

Function is flawless

 

Thanks guys.

Running a PV tuner, had good luck with DJ and FM.

That’s good info on the Kibble white springs, had a set of SE heads read about how the .585 springs are a bit too stiff causing some noise.

Going to dig into Larry’s lifters today, forty bucks a piece seems fair, sixty to seventy not so much.

SM, that’s exactly what I was hunting on the ACRs, thank you.

Rounders, what pistons did you go with? I’m thinking on boring my cylinders and if I can find a shop that will keep the cost down below 300 I might head down that road. If pistons and boring can keep the cylinder cost around $700 total, that would be cool. Once we get above the 800 mark, a new jug kit is only a few hundred more.

Presently, I’m gathering parts and planning a December/January build. Worried about backordered stuff, hell man I can’t find a 180/70/16 Michelin scorcher anywhere and I only need to replace a rear.

 

I went with some model of cp that Hoban had in stock. They needed the weight to balance my crank. I went with standard done trying to keep compression down

Had real hard time with those springs. Friend put them in. Retaining ring was not as good as Harley to him,the wedges that hold together,not sure terminology. He also felt those tight of spring will wear parts the shop I got my stuff from sold them. I am sure opinions vary.

Two years before I had a different shop bore, they supplied pistons and gaskets $650.

Shop will want pistons to verify fit