I wouldn't get too concerned about going too fast, you literally don't know what she will do at a track. You will probably have at least two passes before you get stuff figured out, if you then go too fast, they will just tell you "next time........." etc. By then you will already have your pass and number and can plan accordingly if you decide to make a habit of the track.

Sounds real expensive from over here, but I certainly get it. Going to TROG this year as a spectator for the first time since 2014, too damn expensive to go fast with old iron. On the second motor rebuild, not looking to do it a third time. But it was fun while it lasted.

Go Fast, Don't Die!!!

 

Yep, I figured it was draggy, tracks are super sticky so it’s completely different and you got a lot of **** going on around you. If you got choices don’t run against an all out drag bike, or sled, it’s super loud hard to concentrate.
T&T are normally slanted towards cars so if the bike count is not high it’s a lot of waiting,
my only red light, and fwd controls are hard to race with.

 

Not overly concerned about the speed My main concern is coming off the line properly without coming over backwards or breaking something..

This is why I want to do time trials first, get used to the track and at what RPM to come off the line.. I'm going to start out at about 25-2600 RPM and go from there.. and in all honesty I would much rather spin coming off the line and I will try 20 psi on the rear.. I'm excited and it should be pretty cool but I'm not going to get overly aggressive.. I think a little caution here would be the smart thing and yes I agree No loud bikes next to me I want to be able to hear what the hell I'm doing.. lol...😂

 

two passes… took me a season to figure out my launch and posture lol.

 

My advice would be yes… spend some time learning to come off the line without wrecking.. But even if it’s not perfect yet always always always chase mph.. everything else eventually follows.

Street ridden daily bikes are NOT dedicated drag bikes and a lot of well meaning drag bike advice isn’t right for a street bike with a street tire and stock length swingarm. This is where guys would argue with me a lot and it was really my secret weapon. Gearing. When you make that much high average raw torque accross that super wide rpm band.. think like the two speed power glide and give up on 4 or 5 gears through the quarter. Instead of waisting all that power I couldn’t launch with geared for 3 gears in the quarter… because it WAS a street bike with a 140 tire. I ran 24 solid motor, 37T basket, 23 tranny and 46 rearT with a 26” tall tire and used 3 gears. It was the only way I got my 60 ft down to 1.54. I’d stay in each gear a long long time. I over shifted instead of undershift. I’d stay (with a shovel and solid lifters) clear up to 6300rpm into second and third. I’d go through the trapes like 5-5500 rpm at about 112mph. When I tried 5 gears and using a 51T… it was just stupid. You’d spin out the first three gears and just get nowhere not to mention waist all that torque. Our beloved tractors are not Jap bikes.

My shovel weighed about 510. I weighed 235, 6’5” wind resistance. It made about 98 to 105 hp depending on tuning and dyno but almost always made about 115 ft lbs of torque. But it was the incredibly high average of torque above 3500 rpm that mattered.

 

I have been trying to focus on my 60 foot time which at best on the street was 1.60 and no wheel spin.. With wheel spin I'm averaging 1.72.. This is why I want to take the RPM's coming off the line.. I never lowered my tire pressure below 30 on the street.. At the track I will try 20-22 psi..

 

160 is very respectable.

 

I assume you have a tach? I actually came out not much off idle at 1500, without a slick
go around the water, a rolling burn out, is enough, DOT tires are not allowed in the water box, they are not made to burnout anyway.
you are going to find out how good or bad your clutch is, especially if they Hot Lap bikes, ESTA its common after the cars pull out, it’s going to get a lot of heat in the clutch, it will start slipping and you will start going slower. So I would work from 1200-1500 up, try to do the same thing each time, close the visor before you start towards lights and and start there. increase it, see what the 60 ft tells you, if you are consistent on launching, mechanics wise, raise the RPM just a bit and see if that 60 goes down
you really don’t even need to be concerned that much with the RT, it’s nice to work on RT but the 60 makes or breaks your run ET and speed, the RT will win a race but it’s just T&T to see what the bike does
If you got a quick pop up shade take that and pop up chairs, water cooler etc.

 

How was the trip down the blacktop?

 

I wish i made that trip by now but I'm still trying to get everything together so I can go, I got to look at my calendar but I'm thinking not this coming weekend but the following weekend it should be the go day...