Compensator Issues 03 FXDWG
#21
John, I see a couple of issues that may or may not be issues. You need to check the sprocket alignment off that finished machined inner cover. You look like you have some face wear on sprocket that may be from chain links.
Be sure to double-check with a dry fit without compensator spring housing (cover) on it. Measure you wall thickness of the compensator (cover). Then the distance between the nut face and end of crank spline.
Then make sure your nut screws on far enough. You may need some new parts or a custom shim. It's difficult to get all that red locktite out of that internal thread on the nut.
One year, they had a recall on thread length that Max is referring to that requires end of nut to be shortened or a front spacer.
Mine had gotten out of line from face wear but it was caused by the rotor spinning when spline stripped out around 10K. Warranty fixed it twice just tightened the front nut. I fixed it at 30K.
I was able to 180 that rear spacer to get a clean area for the seal to run in. Mine had a groove in it.
My compensator at 30 k had a lot of fretting and torn-out spots compared to yours. Especially the shaft extension. That doesn't hurt anything.
Uneven chain wear makes you use up all the tolerance to set tensioner. That loose and tighten of the chain and Harleys uneven firing make a lot of primary racket at idle.
If it goes away run, it's normal. Mine hat a clicking it slow 180 hard turns from links hitting edge of rear sprocket. There is only 1/32 (0.032) clearance between chain links and sprocket.
Notice face wear that let sprocket move in.
Dry fit with spring housing off to make sure nut goes on far enough
flipped spacer 180 for new seal area.
Be sure to double-check with a dry fit without compensator spring housing (cover) on it. Measure you wall thickness of the compensator (cover). Then the distance between the nut face and end of crank spline.
Then make sure your nut screws on far enough. You may need some new parts or a custom shim. It's difficult to get all that red locktite out of that internal thread on the nut.
One year, they had a recall on thread length that Max is referring to that requires end of nut to be shortened or a front spacer.
Mine had gotten out of line from face wear but it was caused by the rotor spinning when spline stripped out around 10K. Warranty fixed it twice just tightened the front nut. I fixed it at 30K.
I was able to 180 that rear spacer to get a clean area for the seal to run in. Mine had a groove in it.
My compensator at 30 k had a lot of fretting and torn-out spots compared to yours. Especially the shaft extension. That doesn't hurt anything.
Uneven chain wear makes you use up all the tolerance to set tensioner. That loose and tighten of the chain and Harleys uneven firing make a lot of primary racket at idle.
If it goes away run, it's normal. Mine hat a clicking it slow 180 hard turns from links hitting edge of rear sprocket. There is only 1/32 (0.032) clearance between chain links and sprocket.
Notice face wear that let sprocket move in.
Dry fit with spring housing off to make sure nut goes on far enough
flipped spacer 180 for new seal area.
#22
part number 35851-84
SPACER, SPROCKET SHAFT - 0.020 THICK. That spacer is in between the outside of the rotor and the bottom of the shaft extension.
That is not the spacer in TT122.
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Max Headflow (06-25-2024)
#23
#24
The following 2 users liked this post by Max Headflow:
EppsHD (06-25-2024),
Mi-Infidel (07-06-2024)
#25
I don’t see that spacer on Ronnie’s Microfiche diagrams for OP’s 2003 Dyna model or any pre-2006 Dyna models.
What does show on a 2004 Dyna models in Ronnie’s Microfiche diagrams is
Spacer 29960-91A which is .250” thick to go under compensator nut thicker then 0.090” stated in TT122.
Last edited by BlackBastard; 06-25-2024 at 10:12 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Max Headflow (06-25-2024)
#26
EXACTLY......
#27
If you Harley came with a shim behind nut, use it. However just check alignment. If you Harley was a year old and compensator nut came loose, it may be a stack up of tolerance needed a shim behind nut.
If it made it this long your good more then likely.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 06-25-2024 at 11:45 AM.
#28
Sometime before 2004, Harley had 9 different spacers for alignment. When my 04 was built, Harley to speed up assembly had invested in better quality control in manufacturing parts and only the standard 0.250 (as I recall whats in mine was available and what was installed.
If you Harley came with a shim behind nut, use it. However just check alignment. If you Harley was a year old and compensator nut came loose, it may be a stack up of tolerance needed a shim behind nut.
If it made it this long your good more then likely.
If you Harley came with a shim behind nut, use it. However just check alignment. If you Harley was a year old and compensator nut came loose, it may be a stack up of tolerance needed a shim behind nut.
If it made it this long your good more then likely.
Last edited by EppsHD; 07-06-2024 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Correction
#29
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Jackie Paper (08-03-2024)
#30
Did you by chance dry fit it to eyeball alignment of sprockets. Just stacked there like that, that's pretty amazing it ended up with the sprockets closer then .030 or a 1/32".
It that OEM parts?
Glad it sounds good. If it's out of alignment, you will hear a ticking in slow 180 turns.
It's hard to visualize how your old components face wear amounts to but if alignment looked good at assembly, I imagine that may be your .05 that put it back in alignment.
It that OEM parts?
Glad it sounds good. If it's out of alignment, you will hear a ticking in slow 180 turns.
It's hard to visualize how your old components face wear amounts to but if alignment looked good at assembly, I imagine that may be your .05 that put it back in alignment.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 08-03-2024 at 08:20 PM.