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Yeah. I should have wrote "alternator rotor" It looks good but I need to question how many miles are on this bike? Looks very low.. You may want to trim the nut just in case..
John, I see a couple of issues that may or may not be issues. You need to check the sprocket alignment off that finished machined inner cover. You look like you have some face wear on sprocket that may be from chain links.
Be sure to double-check with a dry fit without compensator spring housing (cover) on it. Measure you wall thickness of the compensator (cover). Then the distance between the nut face and end of crank spline.
Then make sure your nut screws on far enough. You may need some new parts or a custom shim. It's difficult to get all that red locktite out of that internal thread on the nut.
One year, they had a recall on thread length that Max is referring to that requires end of nut to be shortened or a front spacer.
Mine had gotten out of line from face wear but it was caused by the rotor spinning when spline stripped out around 10K. Warranty fixed it twice just tightened the front nut. I fixed it at 30K.
I was able to 180 that rear spacer to get a clean area for the seal to run in. Mine had a groove in it.
My compensator at 30 k had a lot of fretting and torn-out spots compared to yours. Especially the shaft extension. That doesn't hurt anything.
Uneven chain wear makes you use up all the tolerance to set tensioner. That loose and tighten of the chain and Harleys uneven firing make a lot of primary racket at idle.
If it goes away run, it's normal. Mine hat a clicking it slow 180 hard turns from links hitting edge of rear sprocket. There is only 1/32 (0.032) clearance between chain links and sprocket.
Notice face wear that let sprocket move in. Dry fit with spring housing off to make sure nut goes on far enough
flipped spacer 180 for new seal area.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 06-23-2024 at 10:26 PM.
John, I see a couple of issues that may or may not be issues. You need to check the sprocket alignment off that finished machined inner cover. You look like you have some face wear on sprocket that may be from chain links.
Be sure to double-check with a dry fit without compensator spring housing (cover) on it. Measure you wall thickness of the compensator (cover). Then the distance between the nut face and end of crank spline.
Then make sure your nut screws on far enough. You may need some new parts or a custom shim. It's difficult to get all that red locktite out of that internal thread on the nut.
One year, they had a recall on thread length that Max is referring to that requires end of nut to be shortened or a front spacer.
Mine had gotten out of line from face wear but it was caused by the rotor spinning when spline stripped out around 10K. Warranty fixed it twice just tightened the front nut. I fixed it at 30K.
I was able to 180 that rear spacer to get a clean area for the seal to run in. Mine had a groove in it.
My compensator at 30 k had a lot of fretting and torn-out spots compared to yours. Especially the shaft extension. That doesn't hurt anything.
Uneven chain wear makes you use up all the tolerance to set tensioner. That loose and tighten of the chain and Harleys uneven firing make a lot of primary racket at idle.
If it goes away run, it's normal. Mine hat a clicking it slow 180 hard turns from links hitting edge of rear sprocket. There is only 1/32 (0.032) clearance between chain links and sprocket.
Notice face wear that let sprocket move in.
Dry fit with spring housing off to make sure nut goes on far enough
flipped spacer 180 for new seal area.
Could you point out the face where on the sprocket? I don't see it. Still worth checking alignment tho.
An easier way to make the measurement is to remove the sliding cam and place the spring cover on the end and lake one measurement.. Can be done with a caliper, digital, dial or verner.. You can compare directly to the shoulder / end of the nut.
Was there a recall or simply a service notice?
I wouldn't use blocks to lock the crank/clutch. I prefer a jam bar..
There appears to be a big difference in the splines on the stator in the 2 pictures above as compared to the picture below.. Are these the same rotors? Because the drilled holes don't line up and See how sharp the splines are in the picture below compared to the one above..? I would not use the above pictured rotor..
I only edited on red font.. If was simpler to do it this way..
There seems to be w different rotors in this post.. Maybe it's me but that's what I see.. The last pictures show a rotor with very good sharp splines and I would use that one..
I only edited on red font.. If was simpler to do it this way..
There seems to be w different rotors in this post.. Maybe it's me but that's what I see.. The last pictures show a rotor with very good sharp splines and I would use that one..
I believe it's the same rotor, just opposite sides. One side will have sharp edges as the splines are cut with a die/stamp or broach..
Some info I compiled to help with noise i was hearing from the compensator area. My compensator nut was tight. What I found in my case was the Spring Pack was over-compressed. I also experienced an occasional grinding starting noise in my 2002 RK.
Compensator Cover w/Springs 40384-91
There are four Bellville springs in the cover. All four are the same diameter and thickness stacked in series inside the cover. They look like large washers that are dished shaped. Adding spring not advised. Once the spring is over-compressed it doesn't provide necessary spring pressure. The compensator spring preload is predetermined by the thickness of the spring pack. If you do not have enough spring pressure, a new spring pack is required.
Regarding looseness of springs in cover, some covers are deeper crimped (dimpled) in three places to put a little load on the springs to keep them from rattling.
Uncompressed stack height is 0.692"
Measure the height of the spring pack and if is less than .650'' then it is bad. Bellville springs can be removed by bending out the crimps slightly on cover.
You'll know when the springs are weak when you begin to have grinding noise on starting. You may think battery is weak or the starter clutch in starter is failing. A new battery or starter will band aid the issue for a short while.
Eventually you’ll hear rattling from within the primary while riding. You may think the compensator nut is loose, causing the noise.
Last edited by BlackBastard; 06-24-2024 at 06:50 PM.
I only edited on red font.. If was simpler to do it this way..
There seems to be w different rotors in this post.. Maybe it's me but that's what I see.. The last pictures show a rotor with very good sharp splines and I would use that one..
It is the same rotor. The pics are front and back of rotor
06-23-2024, 07:00 PM
