Thundermax is transferable.. They sell hardware not software.. I've bought a few used ones.. Want to program it? Later ones you can get the cable anywhere, standard USB mini. Download the software of their website and you are good to go.. They capture the serial numbers just to keep the other stuff that uses SN to be happy. I've logged over 170000 miles on 2 bikes with Tmaxs. 02 RK and 078 EGC.

The warranty may not be transferable but IIRC it's only good for a year or 2.

 

Good to know, I have had the Tmax since before the bike went down, the reason I bought it was because of it's capabilities though admittedly I never messed with it enough to learn the programming side too much. Just loaded the base map, let it do it's fuel curve corrections, loaded that **** up and rode the bike!

In other news I came across a good deal on a set of take off fwd controls from a 2010 Street Bob for $100 and a 30 min drive, sadly the TC Bros fwds are going bye bye. The HD controls work perfect with the reduced reach brackets and have gobs of clearance with the front header, all that time wasted trying to make the TC Bros controls work

 

Disregard.....

 

What's the scoop?

Bike looks great

 

Thanks bud! Well I've been doing 60+ hours a week at work on top of other life ordeals so I have been scrounging up time to work on the bike and as such have lacked on photos and posting here....The scoop is that I am 98.9% done with the bike, I probably made a few crucial mistakes and was concerned but I opted to yank yesterdays post and just continue the thread as normal. So I am going to play catch up and then we will get to where I landed yesterday with the bike, the pictures are going to be extremely out of order because I was working on things as I had parts.

I left off with picking up those used Harley FWD controls and after doing some test fitting I remembered why I wanted to get away from them in the first place. The plus side was that made me realize that Harley spaces the right peg out about 1.25" longer than the left side, the TC Bro's don't but I came to an easy solution there. Ordered some 1" x 1.25" aluminum round stock drops from eBay for a whopping $10 shipped. Drilled a hole, cleaned it up and picked up a longer bolt from the hardware store and now my right leg isn't cramped on the air filter/foot hanging half off the floorboard.



Took some time for me to sort out the exhaust between ordering new bungs and trying to find a guy capable of Tig welding Stainless that was local to me and willing to take on a small job like this. Nonetheless I got it done and he did a great job!

I ordered a straight, 30 degree and 45 degree bung. The 30 degree is what I was suspecting I needed and it ended up being right on the money! Once I handed the parts off to the guy he had the pipe back to me in a week and even got delivery service on his way home from welding it up.









Then more problems persist with the pipe, it is in the way of the oil filler cap and my center peg mount, no matter what I did it could not get everything spaced out. I came to the conclusion that the Predator motor mount I have pushed the engine up a bit higher than the OEM mount (plus it doesn't sag at all) and that throws the geometry of the pipe off a bit.

I need to figure out what to do about the oil filler cap if anyone has any ideas? Right now I hacked up the dipstick so that it will work. I've seen a picture of a slim line type dipstick that will work, in fact it is what SPC has pictured on some of their bikes too but I can't find one.



Nothing a belt sander can't fix! I picked up some high temp flat black paint and coated everything and baked it per the instructions.







Before I mounted the pipe for good I wanted to take care of the bubbling paint on the rear master cylinder reservoir and bleed the brakes. Took the cap down to bare metal to paint it and decided I liked the cap being raw.





Finally the exhaust is mounted and I can move forward with wiring!



Nothing exciting but here it all is, cleaned up in place. Spent some time with the tank on and off to verify fitment as well. There were a lot more items I addressed while doing this such as making a new pigtail to go from battery to under seat. Getting the oil cooler install done and just in general cleaning up the wiring. Then finally getting the tank mounted and the dash wiring done.









Afterwards I spend a few hours getting the TC Bro's controls mounted, the mini boards, shifter, brake lever and respective pegs on top of passenger peg extenders and mid pegs mounted. As well I sorted out the handlebars, mirrors, oil cooler fan light and shifter linkage.







I still need to finish the battery cover band but so far this is what I've got - took a 1" hole saw to a piece of angle to make a divot for the press. Marked out the band and bent it, added the slight curvature and test fit everything. Thinking I am going to use rare earth magnets screwed to the band and bottle opener to hold them in place. The Wasabi logo on the bottle opener will get removed.

 

That pipe might still hit your mount. It vibrates quite a bit

 

Don't burn out man, sounds like you're burning your candle at both ends and from the middle out; but then again, like The Kurgan said...
Serious hustle going on there, good work, great work

 

So far I have not noticed that it is hitting or rubbing, I'll keep an eye on it, I still have another 1/8" I could probably take off if needed.

Thank You, I like Kurgan, Kurgan speaks it well!

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I forgot to mention I got the sissy bar in and dropped off at PC, I suspect that should be done by next week sometime. It is the "Muchacho" by Combustion Industries, seems well made although I'll admit it is a bit on the lighter side - not as heavy duty as most of the sissy bars I've seen. I am getting it colored to match the tins.



Sunday I got oil in all three holes and hooked up to the Thundermax to load the base map provided by Fuel Moto. Set the spark plug gaps and coated the threads with a bit of never seize.



I went through some final checks in preparation for the first start, I jacked the bike back up and spun the rear tire until my arms hurt! Yanked the fuel pump and lighting fuses and loosened the spark plugs to crank the motor over more to further assist with priming the system. I felt like It was good but in hind-site I realize I should of pulled the rocker covers, to be even more frank I rushed these final steps because I was addiment to start heat cycling the bike before I ran out of daylight. I popped the fuel pump fuse back in and let the Thundermax do it's initialization for the sensors and then continued to prime the fuel system until I head the fuel pump tone change and could tell it had good resistance on it.

Rolled the bike outside to get some photos in the sunlight and wipe down the tins.











And the final moment is among us.....starting the bike and doing it's first heat cycle. THIS is where I got really nervous and posted the other day. The lifter noise kind of startled me on the initial fire so I chopped it and re-read the instruction card they came with, it states that the lifters will be noisy until they warm up so I was like "Oh, okay, we are good" and started the bike again trying to bring it to a steady 1500 RPM for 1 min as I decided to follow S&S cycles break in sheet. About 30 seconds in white smoke started out the exhaust, you can see me in the video let off and hesitate but in my mind I'm like "Oh, it's just assembly lube, oil on top the pistons and condensation/new exhaust burning off" so I continue. Immediately checked the temps with a temp gun and I am good around 140 at the spark plugs, headers were around 230 if I recall and jugs were about 130 or so.

https://i.imgur.com/TL5jjZo.mp4

I let the engine cool down to ambient, I could touch everything and just feel a slight warmth. So cranked it over for the second heat cycle, this is at the point that I realized my starter is going to need a rebuild, got a nice grinding sound out of it mid way through cranking. So this second heat cycle I am still getting noise from the lifters, I thought that was a bit odd but in my naivety I continued on, same ordeal started getting some white smoke and then I killed it. At this point I am kind of like "Well, f*ck me, I sure hope this b*tch didn't neglect to prime/get the air out on the first cycle cause we all know what that means.....Lack of lubrication - micro welding rings, loss of tensions on the rings, scoring the cylinders and whatever else can go wrong.

Let the engine cool back to ambient and started it a third time, this time the lifters sound good, engine sounds good and so I'm like "Okay, maybe we are good..." Thing is I am still nervous as hell, I have been eating myself up since Sunday over this and really hoping nothing is damaged. I still want to do a few more heat cycles and then get it loaded on the trailer so I can get inspection done and get a new license plate/registration. I'll then finish breaking it in and do a leak down test to see where I stand with ring seal/cylinder health.

https://i.imgur.com/uMyvSni.mp4

Until then I'm out of things to post until I get the battery cover done and the sissy bar in, oh and I need to order parts to rebuild the starter.

 

The lifters will take several minutes of run time. I had one, one time that took about seven minutes

 

Bike looks sweet!

It’s a bit nerve racking on a new startup, listening, looking and thinking as hard as possible for 10-20 seconds, waiting for the proverbial shoe.

Really nice work dude, thanks for sharing.