Can't get it firm, is it too big or too small?
#41
What are you using to "T" the brake line?
Looking at the calipers they look to be tilted towards the back some. You might want to try an make them more vertical.. Loosen the fork mounts, remove the bottom bolt and tilt back, tighten the top bolt to hold in place. I
When bleeding brakes, the masters do the best if you pump real slow.. I suspect that they can pull air in from where the lever plunger goes into the master cylinder body if pumping fast.
I've had the best luck using a mityvac for initial bleeding then pumping slow with the master.
Looking at the calipers they look to be tilted towards the back some. You might want to try an make them more vertical.. Loosen the fork mounts, remove the bottom bolt and tilt back, tighten the top bolt to hold in place. I
When bleeding brakes, the masters do the best if you pump real slow.. I suspect that they can pull air in from where the lever plunger goes into the master cylinder body if pumping fast.
I've had the best luck using a mityvac for initial bleeding then pumping slow with the master.
#42
#43
#44
I have to deal with a rear caliper on one of my bikes that has the bleed screw facing the wrong way. I have to remove it, block the pads with a bit of wood or the like to bleed it. In Max's example pic, I would likely pull the caliper so the bleed screw is pointed up.
A cheap reverse bleed tool. Use a syringe, like a horse meds syringe that has the capacity to push ALL or at least most of the fluid from the caliper to the master. Also make sure it fits the hose size you plan to bleed with. Flea bay or the rain forest or your local farm supply have these.
Tom
A cheap reverse bleed tool. Use a syringe, like a horse meds syringe that has the capacity to push ALL or at least most of the fluid from the caliper to the master. Also make sure it fits the hose size you plan to bleed with. Flea bay or the rain forest or your local farm supply have these.
Tom
#45
#46
You mean "can't" right? And I see what you're saying about my setup now, you're suggesting tipping the caliper during bleeding, makes sense. I have a reverse bleeder coming Sat, so I'll tip them when I use it.
#47
Yeah,, Can't...
Add:
What the reverse bleeder get you is the ability to move air up hill. If you have some sort of situation where there is some volume with no upward exit, air can collect. In some cases it is hard to pump the air out.. It might be a splitter, part of a slave cylinder or path to the slave.
Another thing to look at is what the pads and discs are doing when you mash the front brake.. Misalignment will cause the rotors to move or twist as pressure is applied. Make sure that this is minimal as the flexing pushes the pads back and gives the feel of mushiness.
Crappy brake lines?
Add:
What the reverse bleeder get you is the ability to move air up hill. If you have some sort of situation where there is some volume with no upward exit, air can collect. In some cases it is hard to pump the air out.. It might be a splitter, part of a slave cylinder or path to the slave.
Another thing to look at is what the pads and discs are doing when you mash the front brake.. Misalignment will cause the rotors to move or twist as pressure is applied. Make sure that this is minimal as the flexing pushes the pads back and gives the feel of mushiness.
Crappy brake lines?
Last edited by Max Headflow; 12-28-2023 at 01:53 PM.
The following users liked this post:
snake_eyes (12-28-2023)
#48
#49
Yeah,, Can't...
Add:
What the reverse bleeder get you is the ability to move air up hill. If you have some sort of situation where there is some volume with no upward exit, air can collect. In some cases it is hard to pump the air out.. It might be a splitter, part of a slave cylinder or path to the slave.
Another thing to look at is what the pads and discs are doing when you mash the front brake.. Misalignment will cause the rotors to move or twist as pressure is applied. Make sure that this is minimal as the flexing pushes the pads back and gives the feel of mushiness.
Crappy brake lines?
Add:
What the reverse bleeder get you is the ability to move air up hill. If you have some sort of situation where there is some volume with no upward exit, air can collect. In some cases it is hard to pump the air out.. It might be a splitter, part of a slave cylinder or path to the slave.
Another thing to look at is what the pads and discs are doing when you mash the front brake.. Misalignment will cause the rotors to move or twist as pressure is applied. Make sure that this is minimal as the flexing pushes the pads back and gives the feel of mushiness.
Crappy brake lines?
Take a look at the first pic in this thread.
#50
The following users liked this post:
snake_eyes (12-28-2023)